I don't want to jinx you, so I won't say, but I did get very annoyed with not having remote entry to the car. A function which I consider to be mandatory not optional.
Hopefully your problems are all but solved !
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I don't want to jinx you, so I won't say, but I did get very annoyed with not having remote entry to the car. A function which I consider to be mandatory not optional.
Hopefully your problems are all but solved !
Quote:
Originally Posted by glenhendry
I am afraid it didnt work. Although I was scared of holding it turned to the lock position for too long for fear of it superlocking and never letting me set foot inside again. There are so many conflicting reports on how to sync fobs, its confusing... So I am worried that something has gone wrong with the receiver or worse the becm. The car is running beautifully at the moment, so I am driving dangerously, with all fingers crossed. :D
My next step is to crack out the multimeter and test that the receiver is getting 12v and also that it is sending whatever signal it is supposed to be sending when the fob is pressed, then I will check that that same signal is getting as far as the BeCM. Then I am planning on hitting the gin and crying myself to sleep. :) Stay tuned.
Glen - if you are down Canberra way sometime (or I come up to BrisVegas) I have the multi-vehicle BeCM licence on my FaultMate so we may be able to do some diagnostics with that. Worst case, we can disable the immobiliser.
Cheers, Paul.
I am all for passive immobilisation disable. Thanks Paul. I think that I would rather that it got stolen than lock me out for a week.Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulP38a
I have tested 12v at connector 0358 for the RF receiver. It has voltage all the time, even with the key out of the ignition to receive keyfob transmissions. So I know that the receiver is getting power. But I cant find in RAVE what voltages I should be expecting on the wire out of the receiver into the BeCM.
The fuse is fine and I switched the relay so they are OK too.
I also installed a stonking new battery which at least rules that out of the equation.
you can test the receiver and that it is getting a signal from the remote (but not what signal) at that 3pin connector on the receiver unit or at the becm. at the receiver 3pin connector you will find 2 wires have battery voltage and the other is ground. inturn test the 2 bat voltage wires while pressing the remote. if all is well one wire will show a definate voltage drop when the remote is opperating.
Key fob test done. I used Rupert's advice and this page along with RAVE. The connector name is wrong on the page (later models use C1285 for that connector as per this page), but it is a good description.
On pin 6 of connector C1285 I had a constant 11.1 volts when earthed to the BECM body, upon pressing the fob button (either lock or unlock) the voltage changed very reliably to 10.9 volts. That proves to me that the fob is transmitting, that the RF recever is reciving the signal and sending it to the BeCM, it also proves that the wiring to the BECM is fine, and now the bad news - for some reason my BeCM is not doing the right thing with that information.
Doh. Now what? :)
i have some questions if you in the mood.
11.1v at pin 6 is a bit low. what voltage do you have at the battery with the ignition on? does the central locking work as i should from the drivers door with the key? has anything else on the car stopped working at arround the same time as this problem appeared? do you get any signal pulses on pin 6 when you do not press the button on the remote?
i have some questions if you in the mood.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupert Prior
Sure - I welcome and appreciate your help
11.1v at pin 6 is a bit low. what voltage do you have at the battery with the ignition on?
I just retested with the engine running. It was a steady 11.60v at the BeCM end which dropped to 11.35 with the fob button pressed. The purple power wire at the receiver's connecter had 13.7v and the orange signal wire at the receiver had (same as Becm end) 11.64v.
I think I read that the receiver had a 12v power source, but the signal to the becm was supposed to be lower than 12v. I could be wrong.
13.78 when running - However, it is a new battery as per this post
12.76 with ignition off
12.66 with ignition on
does the central locking work as i should from the drivers door with the key?
yes - all good - all doors work, alarm switches on and off - new door lock actuator installed last week
has anything else on the car stopped working at arround the same time as this problem appeared?
Not as of last night, but yes as of this morning. In fact - amazing you should ask this - this morning when I got out to the car, all the indicator turn signals were on. I am worried aplenty that this should mean BeCM problems. The six indicator lights were on without flashing and stayed on once I unlocked with the key. They event stayed on when I started the car - and it started fine. I used the hazards and they started flashing as designed, then stayed on again when I killed the hazards. I locked the car and then started it through the window and the alarm (and horn - oops) went off as normal which I silenced by locking the drivers door with the key. It started again fine and all went back to normal. Somewhere in that sequence there were funny noises under the bonnet and the washers for the headlights sprayed water. I fear I have a confused car.
All else is fine - starting, driving, lights, dash, etc.
do you get any signal pulses on pin 6 when you do not press the button on the remote?
No, it was rock solid.
the becm is failing, this may be the becm or a have been caused by something else. while it is still mobile get the car to somewhere you can work on it and has no unwanted rf signals and try the hard reset two or three times. if that fails then another becm is the way to go, i dont think a repair would work for long. if you find another unit i can clone yours to it.