p38 blown front diff

**wayneg** · 5th April 2011, 06:13 PM

Originally Posted by willem

So what's involved in replacing it? Big job? Do you replace just the diff centre or what else? This is a new area for me.

99 P38 4.0

Willem

If you search for CV Joint I did a write up on removing the axle shafts. ( no need to undo the big hub nut though) once both sides are out unbolt the front propshaft, drain the oil and unbolt the diff , I recon 2 hours and pretty straight forward.

**willem** · 6th April 2011, 12:35 PM

Originally Posted by RR P38

When you say "metal fillings" do you mean chrome in the oil?
Or actual metal in the oil?

I do all my own services i dropped the oil out of the diffs 12 months ago and noticed some chrome discolouration in the rear diff oil recharged it and drove it for 100-200k and dropped the oil again did this one more time and still had a slight chrome discolouration. So she went in for a look see one bearing was breaking down (no noises heard).
Over haul of the diff $440 that was at 285k kms.

Actual metal in the oil.

It seems a bit early at 200k kms.

Willem

**mogswoffy** · 7th April 2011, 07:36 PM

what usually makes either diff fail is the centre viscous coupling seized. the front diff will normally let go first as this is the one that takes the most punishment from the steering action.

I would certainly check the couplings is operating correctly before you drive it after fitting the new diff.

**wayneg** · 7th April 2011, 09:07 PM

From my experience the CV joints will give up before the diff if the viscous coupling becomes solid. This is from owning 2 RR Classics not p38 ownership. They will just shatter internally. The tyres judder on full lock which should be enough warning. You then get the bang if you dont do something about it.

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