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Thread: P38 Overheating in Hot Weather/Condenser Fan Failure

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by DT-P38 View Post
    Redandy you should go straight to a radiator specialist joint for a check and get them to list recommendations. Mine did similar stuff a couple of years ago not long before it blew its top and cost me about $6K for a new short motor.
    I might just do that. On that note, i did change the coolant a couple of months ago by simply draining and adding a coolant flush additive then draining a few times before adding fresh coolant. After adding new coolant, i ran the motor with the reservoir cap off for 20 minutes to allow any air bubbles to escape, however what are the odds of more air being trapped in the system??

    Also when driving off-road, it tended to get a little hot also when the air-con was on!!!

  2. #12
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    I've done further research on this by chatting to a couple of Range Rover Service Shops in Melbourne, and they all pretty much suggest that by 15 Years & 150,000km+ the Radiators are almost certainly clogged/stuffed and are the cause of most of the issues.

    Beside Leaking gaskets ete they say the Water Pump is usually quite robust.

    My Radiator is getting replaced Tuesday.. will let you know how I go.

  3. #13
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    Ok, i've again drained and flushed the radiator, engine etc. running fresh water through the top hose and giving the radiator a good rinse by toping it up then draining for about 5 times. To no suprise, there happens to be a fair amount of gunk just sitting at the base of the rad. After shining a torch in through the drain plug i noticed that the fins have this greenish brown powder like accumulation built up around it. Althought the radiator itself is in reasonable condition and unless there is some sort of cleaning agent that can remove this, i think the time has come to replace the radiator altogether. I did top it up again with a little over 50% of concentrate coolant and the rest with distilled water for the time being until i can book my vehicle in to radiator specialist.

  4. #14
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    I honestly wouldn't bother too much with a Radiator Specialist... I've yet to find one who can repair a Range Rover Radiator (they keep breaking the Plastic Surrounds ete).

    New Ones are around $400 Inc GST (OEM from Scotland) in Melbourne (British Parts in North Melbourne).

    I've replaced mine on a 235k Milage Car and it's solved all overheating issues...

  5. #15
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by BusinessConnected View Post
    I honestly wouldn't bother too much with a Radiator Specialist...

    I've replaced mine on a 235k Milage Car and it's solved all overheating issues...
    I'll back that ....




    Once your radiator is looking sad and old .... Just cut to the chase and get it either re-cored or just buy a new 1

    Flushing or just plain old frigging around with it, is just buying you time for the inevitable .... It's done for / rooted / pushing up daisies

    Cost of a radiator verses a motor rebuild ... take your pick





    While we are at it .... check your viscous fan .... My money says it doesn't work


    Fleabay . au... has the viscous hub at around $200 delivered
    Fleabay . uk... has it at around $100 + delivery

    Cheers
    Mike

  6. #16
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    The Fan Hub seems to have a little more longevity in them than the Radiators. Mine at 235k is still going strong....

    Don't even bother trying to get them recored... stump up the $400 for a New OEM One...

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Your choice on how you spend your hard earned RedAndy, just make sure you actually do something and keep a very close eye on temps and fluid levels in the mean time.

    BTW I have noticed that oil level can have an impact on how hot or cold my 'pretty pig' runs. Especially in hotter weather. If she's running low she tends to run hotter... wonder if a bigger capacity sump would help these things? I have heard that problems Nissan had with their 3.0 TurboDiesels were short term fixed with shortening dipsticks and eventually fixed for good with increased sump size.

    Anyone ever heard of P38's with enlarged/modified sumps?

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by DT-P38 View Post
    Your choice on how you spend your hard earned RedAndy, just make sure you actually do something and keep a very close eye on temps and fluid levels in the mean time.
    Point taken....Will be ringing British Parts in North Melbourne 2morrow for new rad.

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