Thread: '95 - 96 HSE price guide

Mine is oct 95 build first reg 96 Got it from a dealer in Bris $10G most people on this site will say that is too much. Has 165K klm looks very tidy inside and out not showing any faults. My advice for what its worth, find one you'd like to own at a price YOU are willing to pay happy hunting.

High KM versions that are a bit rough seem to go for around $6-8K, Good clean ones with acceptable KMs $9-13K.

It would be fair to pay more if the vehicle has been looked after, new radiator, new airbags, repainted etc, i think you need to weigh up what needs to be done to the vehicle, P38s require a high level of maintenance, so any example that hasn't been properly maintained will need a few thousand spent on it straight up.

I have seen some for as low as $5k. the early ones are running high km's and a fair bit may have to be spend on keeping them running.
I believe a '99 onwards is the pick of the bunch and even than calculate a few $k per annum just for upkeep.

I have only ever driven 2 and must say they are a fine ride but the owner did say to keep an eye on warning lights as I had the car for a week and if any issues to call him immediately.
Nothing happened apart from me being very impressed and wanting one but he spends at least $2k on every service and had the whole dash out twice now for electrical and aircon woes.

Still, he says he paid over $100k for his new and will not be selling it.

I suggest you buy very cheap and spend some dollars on fixing or getting things the way uou like or spend a bit more and get as low a mileage and as late a car as possible.

Good luck

I have not been to a car auction since about last October. I have seen these go through auctions in the range $6500 to $8500 for very, very, tidy examples. Dealers don't like them unless they have one pre-sold. Dealers have to give warranty and warranty insurance is expensive for problem cars with expensive repairs. High excesses also usually apply.

There's one here in Strathalbyn at the moment.

'95 HSE, White with Grey interior. 220K on the clock. A little on the shabby side, and he's asking $10000.

About $4K too much in my opinion.

I've seen some nice updates for the same money interstate. That will get you a crossbolted block, Bosch ignition, traction control on all 4 wheels....... I know what I'd be going for.

Are you after leather and a sunroof, or mechanical reliabilty and off-road-ability (is that a new word)?

I can state from experience that a 99+ "Thor" 4.0 has as at least as much grunt as a pre-99 "GEMS" 4.6 in standard form.

My 1999 "Thor" 4.0 is mechanically very good but not pretty like a HSE. Only reason I am contemplating selling it is that I have 2000 4.6 HSE project car and my better half prefers her Freelander to a Rangie... but I am working on her so I can keep both P38's and lose the TD4 Freebie

I would sell my 99 4.0 as is for $18k (172K Km [top end rebuilt 18m ago], NSW Rego unitl July, HRA front bar and stone guard/bash plate, snorkel, custom rear bar and tyre carrier, HRA 2" lift, Gen III air springs, Boss 12-way [or TF +2" shocks], rear air locker, 4.10 diffs, 33" muddies [or 30.5" roadies], adjustable panhard rod, sway bar disconnects, onboard air and EAS Emergency Bypass, bigger EAS compressor, coolant filter, dual exhaust, Kenwood stereo/DVD/GPS/iPod/Rev camera, front and rear LED work lamps, and so on...) or $8k with the "cool" stuff removed. It is scratched, faded, and a few dents, but sounds and goes like a V8 should... and it goes everwhere I have pointed it at.

These posts should give you an idea what they are worth. IMHO the P38 is the most under-rated, comfortable and capable 4WD available in the $5-20k price range... but don't tell too many people or we will be inundated with yobbos/CUB's

... And they are much simpler to work on yourself than mechanics and other nay-sayers would have you believe.

Of course, I am based.... FWIW: I like running Hard Range as a "cottage industry" to cater for other LR and RR enthusiasts, not as a profit-driven business that sells stuff to anyone with a credit card and a p*ss-poor attitude.

Cheers, Paul.

If it is rude to extend the originators question, someone please tell me off. Do members think it is better to buy the best you can afford and hope it is a good one, or buy cheap and spend on intial repiars that you know are done right eg air bags, radiator,etc? Would the answer change if I was planning an engine transplant?

Originally Posted by Bilbo

If it is rude to extend the originators question, someone please tell me off. Do members think it is better to buy the best you can afford and hope it is a good one, or buy cheap and spend on intial repiars that you know are done right eg air bags, radiator,etc? Would the answer change if I was planning an engine transplant?

Follow your gut. I recently bought a late 2000 p38, and just by looking at it, i knew it would not have any serious problems.

I was not surprised when i found that the log books had current stamps (and every 10K since new) from a perstige mechanic...

For a car to be a good one it must have....

-No fading on the roof or bonnet (and no blemishes on the duco aswell)
-The corners of the sunroof seal are not popping up
-A spare with new or almost new tread (if bald, it was a tight ass owner)
-filter material on the cabbin air intake
-No check book symbol on the HEVAC
-Legable symbols for the volume control and cruise control on the steering wheel
-Everything (i mean everything) working..... (take cds with you for a test drive)
-Clean interior with minimal signs of wear (i have seen 300,000km examples with nice leather)
-Rear cargo blind with no broken clips.
-Spring loaded range rover flap that COMES DOWN WITH THE TAILGATE.
-No visible lip on the brake disks when felt through the wheel spoke
-New looking air bags (if they are alot cleaner than the rest then they have been changed recently (they also have a date on them if you look closely)
-No visible melting in the fuse box under No. 7 fan relay. (fuse box has a date code on it too).
-An owner who knows what he is talking about, if not ask for his mechanics number and quiz him.
-2 or more keys + sunroof key
-Log books with the correct vin in the front. It also should have the engine number in there too, double check this against the car, and ask questions if its different.
-Towball with little signs of wear.. (no electric brake controller please!)
- If you can get access to diagnostics equipment (not normally possible) read what codes it has. It may even be worth getting an EAS cable and plugging in a laptop while inspecting the car.

By cheap if you are prepared to do work yourself, and it will still cost as much or more than a really nice one. While you are changing bits around, skinning your knuckles, trolling aulro and rr.net, all you can think about is "why didnt i spend the extra $XXXX and get that perfect one".

I have a customer who recently purchased a 2000 HSE which had not run for 12 months. He paid 7K. He took it to a well known Land Rover megchanic in st peters for a quote to do necessary repairs and get it back on the road. The quote was $14000. He declined, but asked if he could get the suspension working again, which 'only' cost 2k (new compressor and rear oem bags)....The car will end up having cost him 14-16k to be sorted on the road by the time he has finished, and then it still has 220K on it + 4 months of stuffing around.

Buy a good one (Prefrably thor onwards) with the above guide, and you are unlikely to be dissapointed.
You will quickly forget how much it cost initally as you will be enjoying you P38 for what it is. (and thinking about extras from hardrange)