Bigger is better is the rule of thumb for the wiring, if in doubt go bigger. I went with gauge 3awg which is 25mm², some go gauge 0 (53mm²) or more . Basically the smaller cable you go the more voltage drop you have and slower the battery will charge, if at all. There's a bunch of voltage drop calculators around - http://redarc.com.au/handy-hints/calculators/voltage-drop-calculator etc.
My used about 5.5m of gauge 3 twin cable running along the left chassis rail.
Also it's always better if you can earth your second battery directly back to to the earth on the primary - chassis etc can't be relied on to be a good earth unless you have to. Use a sealed AGM type battery if you can (rather than a wet type) - primarily because they recharge 3-5 times faster than other types (assuming your wiring is good), they're good in every other way too.
Thicker wiring will also help in the event your primary battery has discharged and you need to get your car going!
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
I have bought the battery and the dual battery kit. Final question is where to mount it. I much prefer the thought of under the bonnet as it will simplify the cabling.
I realise that some batteries are specifically contraindicated under the bonnet, but I bought a fully sealed 98AH battery that is fine to install under the bonnet or in the spare wheel well.
It looks to me like if I bust out the battery tray in my 2000 HSE that there will be enough room for two batteries side by side there. All I would need is an interesting tray to hold both as the 'floor' isnt level there. The compartment aft of the current battery is empty as the ECU was moved for Thor engines, so I think I have room for the entire dual battery system and isolator unit under bonnet.
Has anyone done this? Why did all the installs below chose the boot option?
Thanks for any more great input before I bite the bullet and trash my OEM battery tray.
Now: 2005 L322 Vogue 4.4 M62TU (Black)
Before: 2000 P38A HSE 4.6 - stately capability | 2008 Kluger KX-S | 2004 Forester | 2000 Yamaha XJR1300 | 1993 VR Calais | 1974 HQ Statesman - 308 V8 | HT | HK
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
OK, I am going to go for the underbonnet system and I will document it.
Anyone care to comment on where I connect the positive terminal of the auxillary battery to? In the following two links here and here, the diagrams suggest connecting the aux battery positive terminal to the 'accessories' or 'auxillary load'. For me, I want that to be all of the cig lighters and radio etc. Can I just wire that straight back into the fuse box so all the cig lighters (front and back) are powered by the aux battery when the engine is off. Surely I dont have to run a separate circuit?!
Now: 2005 L322 Vogue 4.4 M62TU (Black)
Before: 2000 P38A HSE 4.6 - stately capability | 2008 Kluger KX-S | 2004 Forester | 2000 Yamaha XJR1300 | 1993 VR Calais | 1974 HQ Statesman - 308 V8 | HT | HK
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