Thread: Overheating when stopped...

Low coolant, or fan not working?

Is your Rad the original? If so there is a very very good chance it is blocked.
The good news is there a a seller on ebay at the mo with a new shiny one for A$309 all up delivered. This is a brilliant price for a Thor Rad.
Similar overheating happened on mine. The rad was blocked and the top tank broke trying to disassemble for possible rodding.
I recall someone having a problem caused by the pipe from the header tank to the top of the rad being blocked so you could check that.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/120746724416'ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1438.l2649

viscus fan is on the way out.

have her try dropping it into neutral and holding high idle and see what that does.

if that stops the overheating its not the fan and is more to do with the flow of the coolant which would be either a sticking thermostat (pull it out and test it/run the vehicle without it for a couple of days) or the radiator is starting to foul.

Cheers for the replies guys. The car doesn't seem to be getting hot, but the gauge is deffinately moving...
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0rFh9O19ms"]Range Rover P38A overheating at idle - YouTube[/ame]
Basically it's just idling in my driveway. Temp shoots up, hits the red, I give it a few revs and the temp drops back down. Excuse the Mrs crapping on the background, she likes to feel involved

Ideas?

Oh, and yes I did get in trouble for "shhing" her

Cheers,
Keels.

Like Dave says, more than likely the viscous fan hub has packed it in. These engines really need them, they sail pretty close to the wind when it comes to cooling system efficiency. They have a very small margin between normal operating temp and overheating. Another issue is radiator cap, it needs to be in working order as the system MUST retain pressure to avoid boiling, even in lazy traffic use.

JC

temp changing that quick both up and down is a bad earth in my view.

raising the revs either pumps more out of a failing alternator or somehow jiggles something into a better contact.

easiest way to test earth theory is to turn on all lights, window demisters and ac fans on full to load up the electrics and see if the gauge moves even more, or more suddenly.


On another note, if your radiators more than 75,000 old, rod or replace it anyways.

my 2 cents

Moving that fast is the relm of boiling in the heads...

Poor flow (pump or thermostat or block radiator) will cause spot boiling and the subsequent purge will throw the temp up then down really quickly...

if its a normalised gauge then it could also be a dying sensor....

start out by doing the same test with a multi meter plugged across the battery and the radiator cap off with and check what the coolant temp is actually doing...