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Thanks for the responces guys, though PaulP38A would you really break a window??
I went back the next morning with a spare fully charged battery and called RACQ (I've owned rangies for about 15 years now):D
It took the guy about 3 minutes....half of which he spent selecting the right bit of wire.
I would like to find out how to do it. It involved a thin wedge an inflatable bladder and the right piece of wire. I guess the wedge and bladder give you a bit of room to work in
All I need to do now is find out why my Faultmate is telling me Idon't have a licence for this vehicle....a bit disapointing after spending best part of $A1000.00 :mad:
Great news you got in with no damage.
Was it done like this?
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9snI5tpr2w]How To Unlock A Car Door In A Minute - YouTube[/ame]
Yep, sure would. Having changed the front driver and passenger windows I know how easy it is to replace them.
Would prefer to know how MacGuyver of the RACQ did it though ;)
I recall that your FaultMate had multiple licences/TUP Codes issued? When you loaded the TUP codes, I believe the P38 licences are in the first "slot", and your RRC licences are in the second "slot". You can switch between licences via the Settings -> Server Settings/Information menu and select the appropriate "System Serial Number" item, and select the "Write Settings" button.
If you last had the RRC licence selected and then tried to access a P38 module, you may get the "not licensed" message. You can also get the "not licensed" message if you try to access a P38 module that was not detected when you did the initial Vehicle Scan, or a different module within the same family.
e.g. #1 - on a 99+ model, the Cruise Control ECU is not detected during Vehicle Scan unless the Cruise Control switch is on.
e.g. #2 - on a pre-99 model (GEMS), selecting the Petrol EMS 99- (Bosch Motronic) module will produce a licence error message.
You have my number, give me a call if you want to talk it through.
Cheers, Paul.
Hi Paul
See vid in post above this. It looks like an easier way.
The RACQ guy had a similar wedge, bladder and about 12" length of wire with a 1 cm long right angle at one end.
Inserted wedge to make room for the bladder, inflated bladder, I assume to give work room then put wire down outside of glass above the lock then either pulled up or pushed down on something in the doorlock..
Wayneg's method looks a lot easier... thanks Wayneg :)
I just don't have time at the moment to worry about the P38A I'm fully occupied and will be until mid Jan. I'll have a good look at it then, there are a few things that need doing but it's drivable most of the time. Most annoying is having replaced the EAS valve block and installed your bypass thingy, I can't clear the faults. Apparrantly getting garbage from the EAS computer.
Take your rego papers to a LR dealer & they can order a replacement key blade to suit your remote. If you have an old remote, you can fit it to that.
If you don't have an old remote, you can use it as a key with the assistance of pliers or the like.
You might need to check if your car has had the lockset replaced first though. LR will only have the factory records.
Tried similar in mine, pulling handle does nothing, alarm went off, key fob remote stopped working , key in ignition did nothing. lifting the lock button up allowed the door handle to work, Put key in ignition and message reading Tamper allert ignition locked ( or something like that) No start.
I inserted the key into the door lock and turned it both ways as you do to sync it. Finally the alarm went off, Key in ignition still warns of tamper but car now starts. Tamper message gone.
I highly recomend you cut the superlocking motor wire to the drivers door, so that you can always at least get into the car if you lock your keys inside.