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Thread: Question for a Kaymar bumper owner?;)

  1. #11
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    I don't have a p38 one yet, but when I put a 2nd hand Kaymar wheel carrier on the mrs landcruiser a few years ago, it had one or two threaded plates or nuts on wire to slot into the chassis rail and attach bolts to through the rail and supports. The support was predrilled with holes that aligned to existing holes in the chassis rail. So no drilling under the car was needed. They were nothing sophisticated, and i think it would be fairly simple to tack weld something like that up using an appropriately sized and spec'd nut and bolt to use on yours.
    Hoo-Roo,

    Dave.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by DT-P38 View Post
    it had one or two threaded plates or nuts on wire to slot into the chassis rail and attach bolts to through the rail and supports.
    I did mine so long ago I don't recall what was actually used - nuts, or plates with welded-on nuts. I'll go out and try to see/photograph what mine uses.

    I just remember seeing the bits of wire last week when I had the car on the hoist to replace the track rod and drag link.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 996TURBO View Post
    I didn't understand anything about how securing the arms into the chassis rails.

    Chassis rails do have 19mm holes but it is not a pass through ie there's a hole on one side of the frame, and a hole on the other side but those are not matching

    Instructions refers to 2 rectangular spacer plates with 18mm holes.
    I think I've worked it out, Flo.

    The arms that go inside the chassis rails have two holes in them, one on the bottom, the other on the side.



    Bolts are passed through these holes from inside the chassis rails. To get the bolts into place, long thin strips of thin metal were welded to the bolt heads (wire could be used). Using the strips, feed the bolts along the rails and manoeuvre them through the holes. Do each side.

    I don't recall getting any spacer plates. Perhaps I should have. My bar was second hand. There's every likelihood the original car has an awful rattle from the spacer plates still being in the chassis. Had I received instructions, I'd have made up the spacer plates.




    Do you have the reinforcing strut?



    I hope this helps.

    P.S. I just received the instructions. Thank you.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    I did mine so long ago I don't recall what was actually used - nuts, or plates with welded-on nuts. I'll go out and try to see/photograph what mine uses.

    I just remember seeing the bits of wire last week when I had the car on the hoist to replace the track rod and drag link.
    Hers was an over bumper one (not bumper replacement like yours) but I think they all have similar style anchorings... been and had a look on the cruiser and cant see anything worth a photo... its all hidden under plastic and more importantly inside the actual chassis rail. Might see if I can find the fitting instructions later today. I think from memory they were pretty comprehensive and had photo's...

    Either way, I would be pretty sure KAymar would be able to provide another just as long as you don't say its for a P38. Last time I made contact on the subject they flatly denied making one - ever!

    I guess the first couple of customer contact layers are probably not old enough to remember even if they were with the company back then!
    Hoo-Roo,

    Dave.

  5. #15
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    Aha!

    I've just read the instructions.



    What they want you to do, before fitting the bar to the chassis, is to slide the reinforcing plates into position with their respective bolts and then wiggle the bolts through the chassis holes and fit the nuts. Temporarily tighten the nuts. Now drill a hole through the chassis and the reinforcing plate to pop-rivet it into position. Remove the nuts and the bolts with their long wire attachments leaving the plates pop-riveted to the chassis.

    Slide the bar into the chassis and then refit the bolts from inside the chassis through the bar and the reinforcing plates. Fit the nuts.

    I haven't done this as I didn't get the plates. I may have to remove the bar and refit it as it does bang around a bit.

    I just another look at the pics. The ones I posted are not from my car but from another car I saw before I got my bar. I can just make out the pop-rivets in the pics.

    I have included a pic from the other side of the same car and you can see the pop rivet.



    Attached Images Attached Images
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  6. #16
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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by DT-P38 View Post
    Might see if I can find the fitting instructions later today. I think from memory they were pretty comprehensive and had photo's...
    Scrub that, "Ron's Rescue Services" beat me to it... by miles!
    Hoo-Roo,

    Dave.

  7. #17
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Curses. I just crawled under my car and had another look. I can see the rivets so I must have fitted the reinforcing plates.

    That means the banging is from something else. Time to check the bolts for tightness.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  8. #18
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DT-P38 View Post
    Scrub that, "Ron's Rescue Services" beat me to it... by miles!
    I'll post the instructions that Flo sent into the Files area of AULRO.....

    Done. http://www.aulro.com/afvb/local_link...catid=7&id=143
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  9. #19
    p38arover's Avatar
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    I'm getting old.

    I'd forgotten this thread: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range...ml#post1068470
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by DT-P38 View Post
    I don't have a p38 one yet, but when I put a 2nd hand Kaymar wheel carrier on the mrs landcruiser a few years ago, it had one or two threaded plates or nuts on wire to slot into the chassis rail and attach bolts to through the rail and supports. The support was predrilled with holes that aligned to existing holes in the chassis rail. So no drilling under the car was needed. They were nothing sophisticated, and i think it would be fairly simple to tack weld something like that up using an appropriately sized and spec'd nut and bolt to use on yours.
    @DT-P38 : yes i think it could be much easier to tack weld some nut on the bumper arms

    @p38arover: i was almost sure i found out the instructions here
    No i don't have the reinforcement plates but could fab those.
    Looks like passing the bolts through these holes from inside the chassis rails will be a real pain. I can't see what will prevent the bolts heads from turning when i'll wrench...

    What do you think about the idea of welding 2 nuts on each arm??

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