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Thread: Brake fluid flush (NOT bleed)

  1. #1
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    Brake fluid flush (NOT bleed)

    Hi folks, my brakes work just fine, but I do not know how old the fluid in it is (I havent changed it in my 20kkm). I wish to flush new fluid into the system but I also wish to avoid the bleeding process by not introducing air into the system.

    If I bleed each corner one at a time (and then the first corner again) wont I be able to replace the vast majority of the fluid and flush out the system without introducing air and necessitating an actual bleed process?

    I saw on a different thread that a re-bleed should be done every 12 months! This defies my rudimentary logic involving hydraulic brake systems. There is either air or not in the closed system. I just want newer, cleaner, moisture-less fluid in the system for peace of mind.

    I appreciate any input wiser folks can provide.
    Now: 2005 L322 Vogue 4.4 M62TU (Black)
    Before: 2000 P38A HSE 4.6 - stately capability | 2008 Kluger KX-S | 2004 Forester | 2000 Yamaha XJR1300 | 1993 VR Calais | 1974 HQ Statesman - 308 V8 | HT | HK

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by glenhendry View Post
    Hi folks, my brakes work just fine, but I do not know how old the fluid in it is (I havent changed it in my 20kkm). I wish to flush new fluid into the system but I also wish to avoid the bleeding process by not introducing air into the system.

    If I bleed each corner one at a time (and then the first corner again) wont I be able to replace the vast majority of the fluid and flush out the system without introducing air and necessitating an actual bleed process?

    I saw on a different thread that a re-bleed should be done every 12 months! This defies my rudimentary logic involving hydraulic brake systems. There is either air or not in the closed system. I just want newer, cleaner, moisture-less fluid in the system for peace of mind.

    I appreciate any input wiser folks can provide.

    Hi glenhendry. I replaced the brake fluid in my p38 recently and did it exactly as you suggest doing it. What I did was to drain/bleed the majority of the old fluid out of the reservoir before filling it up with new fluid and then did a full bleed with the new fluid. I also bled the two bleed nipples on the side of the master cylinder. As long as you make sure that the reservoir doesn't run out of fluid you shouldn't have any issues.

  3. #3
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    a brake fluid flush should be done every 24 months in dry conditions and 12 months in humid environments. (12 months for Australia)

    the brake system is not sealed its open to atmosphere at the top. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and pulls moisture out of the air quite easily as well as degrading over time with use. The water laden brake fluid is also denser than the clean stuff so will work its way down to the low points in the system and cause problems.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

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    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


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  4. #4
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    Just curious,
    has anyone done the bleed / flush using the abs pump via their nanocom.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by goingbush View Post
    Just curious,
    has anyone done the bleed / flush using the abs pump via their nanocom.
    Unless I am misinformed, BBS have not yet released the P38 module for the Nanocom.

    If they have, I'll be just a bit p****d off as they sent me the special cable and told me I'd be on the beta test programme

    Afraid we P38 owners still have to bleed the old fashioned way...

    Cheers, Paul.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  6. #6
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    I was going to do the same by changing the colour of the fluid. Swapping red for clear etc and bleeding till the new colour comes through.
    Is that feasible or dont they do different colours any more?
    Didiman

  7. #7
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    yeah they do problem is mostly they no longer make brakefluid in the bottles with the clear strip down the side so you can see the colour of the fluid.

    IVe seen it in red, green, blue, yellow and an off clear kind of yellow. the green ,off clear and blue are the most common.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #8
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    Anybody got any views/experience with silicone brake fluid alternatives? Apparently they are non-hydroscopic.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by poleonpom View Post
    Anybody got any views/experience with silicone brake fluid alternatives? Apparently they are non-hydroscopic.

    Compressible.

    I refuse to use it for that reason, no one in motorsport uses it for that reason and it can't be used on an ABS system for that reason.

    Stick to good old fashioned glycol-ether based fluid.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by poleonpom View Post
    Anybody got any views/experience with silicone brake fluid alternatives? Apparently they are non-hydroscopic.
    That's a good reason not to use it as the water separates out and causes problems... you can get superheated water droplets in the system from heavy braking ..BANG! the hygroscopic nature of glycol-ethers allows the water to stay in solution meaning that while the boiling point of the overall mix is lower the water content doesn't 'superheat'...

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