Why are you looking for problems? stick the old plugs back, change the engine oil and carry on as before. Well that`s what I would do. If it ain`t Broke.................
While I've got the plugs out today, figured I might do a check on the compression, since I've got a test set here and have never used it...
1999 4.0 low compression engine with 178k. Head gaskets and heads were replaced 2 years ago.
It was a dry test, and I didn't warm the engine up first (oops).
Plugs removed, fuel pump fuse and relay removed. Battery charge ok.
Results in PSI:
1 = 130
2 = 130
3 = 125
4 = 130
5 = 145
6 = 130
7 = 130
8 = 140
Should I be concerned?
Would you expect the results to improve (or worsen) when done again "wet" and/or at running temperate?
cheers
Paul.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
Why are you looking for problems? stick the old plugs back, change the engine oil and carry on as before. Well that`s what I would do. If it ain`t Broke.................
all are just within 10% so your ok...
Id do a leak down on #3 just to find out where the compressions going.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Thanks guys, will see if I can pick up a leak down tester from an auto shop tomorrow. I might even have enough air fittings in the garage to bodgy something up tonight.
Fuel consumption has been up a bit in the past few weeks and am looking at simple things... might just be some bad fuel, the MAF and/or air filter is filthy.
To do a wet compression test, how much oil should I squirt in the cylinder?
Use a syringe or a bit of clear tube I guess?
Cheers
Paul.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
Compression figures look O'k. For a wet test 2 or 3 squirts from an oil can is all that is needed.
Not to much to worry about tho. As others have said "If it aint broke don't fix it "
Gary
less than 10ml but every pot must recieve the same amount...
usually once Ive put it in I turn the engine over by hand 2 full turns before going the starter, this ensures that your not going to "hydraulic" the piston and blow the gauge apart.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I wouldnt bother with a wet test,
Why?;
How do you ensure the oil is all the way around the bore?
Is it a real world test?;
Not really, is it normal to have that much oil on top of a piston?
A warm test is the best way i would say.
Any compression test will give a different reading according to how fast you are spinning the engine.
All compression ratios are is a measurement of volume within the cylinder at maximum (volume) compared to minimum (volume).
You dont seem to have a great deal of variance across the 8 cylinders, up to 10% is the accepted range and beyond this you would probably start to look at valves/rings as a possible problem.
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