Thread: New P38 owner - Perth

Minor issues are:

Ignition will sometimes 'stick' when I take the key out, so it thinks the key is still in and will not lock. Will WD40 or something similar be ok to use?

Couple of interior/dash lights need replacement - around ignition barrel and the drivers side climate control buttons

The subwoofer has developed a strange rattle or vibration?

Bit of an oil leak happening, which I am getting checked out this week.

Brake system needs a new accumulator - where is the best/cheapest place to get one?


I'm looking for guides on these issues, so hopefully I will be able to sort them out myself.

HelloJezza. That's a nice looking P38 - hope she treats you nicely.

Can't help with your problems but Graphite Powder only in the ignition lock - no wet lubricants.

I saw that one for sale, only up for a couple of days then gone. You must of struck quickly. I agree 100% on the graphite for the ignition or any lock.
Accumulator from the UK, cant remember which supplier but the best price by a long way, do a search here.
Oil leaks come as standard, where from, Front crank pulley? If its not to much I would not worry much
Take the Sub apart, you most probably have a split cone or two, your choice to replace or just fit a nice 12" in the space
Bulb for the Hevac control are easyish, just pull ot the Hevac, again a search here or one of the other sites will give instructions
Caution with tyre sizes or you might get rubbing when the car drops at speed or full articulation. 265 70 16 will give no problems.

Took the P38 to Jurien over the long weekend. The car did very well, it was comfortable on the highway, then held it's own on the 4WD tracks behind the beach.

Didn't take it onto the beach as I had no recovery gear or any other vehicles to assist if I got bogged. Was good to get out there on an adventure in it though, plan to take it out more often.


Long story short, coming back into Perth, it threw a EAS hard fault, and has since dropped onto bump stops since being parked at home.

As far as I know, it's still on the original compressor, but the air bags have been replaced recently.

The car won't lift at all, and the compressor/valves seem to just click.

I have the hard range EAS unlock cable, but still setting up a laptop to run the software with. My older (800mhz etc, running XP, has a serial port) laptop comes up with an application error when I try launch the EAS suite.
Going to order a USB to serial cable so I can use my newer laptop that had no problem launching the suite.

Once I've plugged it into the suite, I am going to have a play and see if I can diagnose the problem. My guess is the compressor and/or valve block has **** itself (car now has ~150 000km).

Will it be better to replace or rebuild?

I never go anywhere far without a laptop in the car with EAS unlock. I am convinced there are outside factors that can cause a fault. It will probably just need resetting. I would regularly get a phantom fault on the Sterling highway by Mosman Park train station. I have both usb and serial set up if you want a hard drive to Coogee to plug it in. I could also give a very short loan of a set of by-pass valves or a working compressor to help you out and get you going

Welcome and good luck with your purchase!
Do some research also on the RANGEROVERS.NET HOME , especially the part on common problems and fixes newrremedies

cheers

I had an EAS Kicker from BBS far smaller to throw in the glove box that a lap top.

Anyway reset faults and see how things go. Cheap to rebuild valve block & just as good most times

Gary

Welcome to the forum, I would agree with other posts that I believe the EAS system can be triggered into fault mode by external factors. On three occassions I have had an EAS hard fault in the same area (around Macksville) whilst driving Sydney -Brisbane. On each occasion I just had to reset with the EAS unlock and car was fine for the rest of the journey and therafter. In my experience so far I wouldn't leave home without the laptop and I have pulled the valve block down a dozen times looking for crushed seals etc to blame.
Get the software going and reset the fault and then see if a fault is triggered again before throwing too much time and $ at it.