I am not for a minute trying to say they are the same as P38 bushes in design, just that they were bought from a very reputable supplier and "OEM standard, made to the original standard by the Original Equipment Manufacturer"
Printable View
Yep, understand that, my fault for not being clearer. The design issue appears to be a factor here re. the ability of the bush to withstand the rigorous forces to which it is exposed. The photo provided shows what appears to be a crack in the outer casing of the bush. That casing is not exposed in the P38 as it appears to be in the Defender design, but rather is compressed and pressed into the eye of the trailing arm where it is fully "enclosed". Thus any cracking of the outer casing is possibly less likely to be as 'catastrophic' as that illustrated by the design on the Defender...
It's not necessarily a black mark against OEM stuff...how long did the originals last? In other fora the comment is sometimes made that when it comes to rubber bushes...spend the $$$ and buy genuine parts.
The originals had done >200k km. However I have been told by people in the rubber industry that rubber formulations have changed in recent years. So comparing the longevity of original fitment bushes on older vehicles against new rubber bushes may not be possible/appropriate.
Either way, I am 100% happy with SuperPro and doubt I could ever be convinced to go back to rubber.
Stay calm people. Thats great feedback there... although your timing is ****ty! We would rather know now than too late though. Can you PM me the brand name so I can be sure we don't end up with them.
I think I am starting to understand why we don't see too many group buys happening through this forum!
In saying that, any one interested in P38 discreet winch mounts and rock sliders? The bushes process has at least forced me to get a final result on an outstanding job!
Sounds good. I certainly don't need no silly paint!!!
I think I've got some Duck Egg Blue left over from the toilet walls I could use. HaHa
Quote:
Originally Posted by DT-P38
Hey there isuzurover,Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
Got your PM but could not reply to it as you are over your quota and cant receive more with out clearing out some old ones.
Anyway, I have a temp. email going at the moment dave@hardrange.com if you could send any info to there it would be appreciated Perhaps you could also ask Warren what the brand or who the manufacturer was. Alternatively I can chase that up myself which might help him understand bad experiences of bad product affect future sales... Even if it's for someone else on the other side of the country!!!
Just seen this thread now...
Interested in
1) SuperPro Kit
2) Winch Mount (Assuming it'll work with Factory Wrap Around Bull Bar)
3) Rock Sliders Depending on Price...
I'd bought a set of OEM spec rear bushes about 2 yrs ago but hadn't been game to "have a go" until now...
SO:
Dropped both trailing arms on the w/e and drilled out the two "rivets" which attach the composite arm to the bush housing (there was a clunking noise which is due to the rivet type fixings stretching).
The bush housing is a 10mm thick aluminium extrusion.
I cleaned it up then pressed the bush out using a large socket I borrowed (a 3/4" drive type) and a 12T $160 press ....
To replace the bushes I carefully chamfered (3mm) them using a fine wheel on the 6" bench grinder;) I also cut a 2mm chamfer using a Dremel on the bush housing.
I then heated the bush housing to about 90-100 deg C (as per thermocouple on the multimeter :D) with an electric heat gun and , wearing welding gloves held bush/housing together while I "tapped" the lubricated (Lanoline grease) bush into place around the edges with a rubber mallet to get it started "square" in the bore of the housing.
I then placed the large socket over the bush and bit by bit forced it home with the press.
The whole job took about 10 minutes for each bush.
I'm amazed at the compression: The bush was 1.67mm wider than the housing. The lanoline lube worked very well.
I honed the bolt holes in the bush housing and composite arm slightly (there was only a couple of thou in it) with a 3/8" drill so they would accept a M 10 bolt.
I'll replace the rivet fixings with M10 10.9 grade coarse thread 70mm bolts plus thread locker and a nyloc nut to 55 ft lbs. (which is about 80% of their yield strength) Bolts to be threaded through from the top.
More later