Cable lubrication

**Craig_Keira** · 2nd March 2012, 11:50 PM

I noticed the Rangie's thottle and cruise control cables were loose. After adjustment, I decided some lubrication would be in order. They felt very dry.

What I did was to use a fun thing known as a cable lubricator in the motorcycle world. These are funky little devices which allow you to force lubricant through a control cable, thereby blowing all manner of gunk out of it and leaving you with a nice shiny control cable. This gives smoother operation - I'm hoping the adjustment and lube will smooth out my cruise control. Of course, it means your cables will last about a thousand times as long if you're meticulous about it.

They are about $10-15 from any motorcycle shop.

Here's a pic of it in action:

**p38arover** · 3rd March 2012, 09:33 AM

Should they be lubed?

I know on my V-Strom it is recommended that one not lube the cables.

**Recy Mech** · 3rd March 2012, 12:48 PM

If lubricating cables I would recommend dry graphite powder. If you lubricate with the various sprays or oil them - that is a magnet for dust/dirt which then becomes a paste and can accelerate wear in a cable and possible failure at a rather inopportune moment.

Just saying like.

**p38arover** · 3rd March 2012, 02:23 PM

Originally Posted by Recy Mech

If lubricating cables I would recommend dry graphite powder.

Can one get graphite powder in suspension in a liquid carrier that will evaporate off to leave just the graphite?

I use graphite powder in locks.

I saw this stuff mentioned on AdvRider:

Fuchs Silkolene Silkopen -

Graphited penetrating spray is intended primarily as a dismantling aid to help free off seized or corroded components. It contains powerful solvents and dewatering aids that enable it to “creep” into the most confined spaces.

**p38arover** · 3rd March 2012, 02:29 PM

I see a product called McKay Fast Drying Graphite Spray

LUBRICATES AND PROTECTS
MCKAY Graphite Spray lubricates and leaves a fast drying graphite film on all automotive, marine and industrial parts before and after assembly. Keeps gears, valves, heads, shafts, rocker arms, engines, transmissions and all metal parts operating quietly and efficiently by reducing heat and friction. Keeps valves and valve seats carbon-free. Leaves a dark metal-like finish that adds a high quality look to all repair work. prevents rust, corrosion and shelf deterioration. Non-abrasive, non-flammable, non-corrosive, non-toxic. Harmless to Anti-freeze and coolants. 12 Oz. Spray

I've never seen it in any Oz shops.

**Craig_Keira** · 3rd March 2012, 03:03 PM

Ah yes, the old questions arise again.

Put 10 4wders/bikers in a room and get 11 opinions!

In all seriousness, these cables are reasonably well-sealed. WD40 should be absolutely find for this application. So should silicone spray.

The cynic in me says that manufacturers recommend not lubing cables because they make about 300% on parts and 5% on a new vehicle.

I've been lubing my CBR600 cables like this for years. In 90,000km I've only broken the clutch cable. The others look new.

**wayneg** · 3rd March 2012, 04:52 PM

Does your throttle have a hard spot, mine has definitely got a "grab" spot at 15 to 20% open. No amount of lube has changed it. Its not the cable sticking, I keep telling myself Its a there to stop erratic throttle movements when on rough ground.

**Craig_Keira** · 3rd March 2012, 10:43 PM

I don't. I'd suggest you should clean lube all pivot points. Is that doesn't fix it, replace the cable. It could well have frayed internally.

**zuk** · 4th March 2012, 03:32 PM

Craig I too have been doing cables fo 30 years and all the sugestions are good ones but please dont ever use WD40 on anything it is poor quality pruduct that glugs up and should not be used on any sliding or rotating mech's I know I sound a bit over the top but WD I can not recomend a much better product is INOX in a liquid lubrcant JMO
Zuk

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