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If you cant find any external leaks and it has not been done before I would seriously look to changing all the seals within the EAS valve block. This might sound daunting however there are great diy instructions available and its quite straight forward if you give yourself time and room to do it. 4 -5 hrs
I would have the EAS software and cable at least to test the system beforehand and after the re-con.
Opening and shutting the doors when parked sets the solenoids off, thats normal. If there is a small leak the car will gradually level itself to the lower corner until its on the bump stops when left parked, Thats not that bad as long as she springs back up once started.
The car listing to one side or corner is not normal so something is amiss.
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Sounds like you may have a few issues.
First thing I would suggest is download the Storey Wilson software and either make a suitable cable or buy one from Hard range to connect the EAS to your computer. Use an older laptop with a serial connection to avoid probable connection and communication problems with USB.
Then you can test many components and still be able to reset any faults generated.
I have just fixed mine and had faults in the solenoids , pressure switch and leaking airbags.
If you suspect a leaking bag (sounds like you do) when you pull the airline out of the valve block there is little pressure. I have done tests on mine numerous times now trying to isolate the prob and I do not depressurise the system before removing the air lines (others may not agree with me on this) and found the faulty bag air line had way less air pressure than the good bags. ( note this was done after the car was sitting for a little while)
The O ring valve block repair is not that bad and there are a few more issues with the solenoids then just the o rings to ensure proper operation, in particular the seating of the top rubber cap on the inner solenoid shaft and the bottom rubber seal on its base.
The instruction from Paul at Hard Range are great for the valveblock rebuild and if you check these other areas on the solenoid shafts then you should be able to rule out that area as the cause.
As a by product of this process you get very familiar with the EAS and its operation.
Hope this helps
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Rollo
I'm in the shire most days so if you would like me to take a look just let me know
Regards
Peter
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Do the valve block rebuild. I have been ignoring symptoms similar to yours for a few months and may have killed my compressor (hopefully just another hard range rebuild kit to fix) through it working overtime to over compensate for valve block leaks or sticky solenoids...
Also, if you don't have one get a EAS Manual Bypass kit ( also available from hard range) and give yourself the "get out of jail" card I used Friday night to keep driving and 4 wheeling all weekend after my Compressor and EAS finally **** itself.
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Thanks for good information and advice guys. I definitely intend to do the valve block rebuild and will be contacting Paul at HardRange as soon as the necessary funds allow. I probably need to tackle the coolant and oil loss issues firstly as these are causing me more concern, although this may not be the case if I leave the EAS too long. The missus had another EAS fault this morning, but again re-set after a couple of minutes.
Thanks again and I’ll come back to ask more specific questions as I get into it.
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Drop me a pm with your contact details and address. We will work something out ;)
Cheers, Paul.
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before you pull the manifold check the water hose from inlet manifold to heater if this leaks coolant runs along the valley and down the back of engine if you need any assistance im outer west sydney
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Oil and water leaks aside, search Youtube for "range rover eas" You will get several videos on easy tests to see if you can isolate the problem. I would also swap the compressor relay in the fuse box with another the same colour and make sure the compressor connecting plug has a good connection. I have had a failure which ended up being caused by arching within the plug burning the terminals. This was intermittent and took ages to find. If the compressor seal is on its last legs it might not be able to keep up with demand and could overheat which trips a thermal cut out within the compressor. When cooled it will run again. The compressor gets very hot under normal conditions so its hard to tell without an electrical test outlined in one of the vids.
Paul at Hard Range is the place for spares when the time is right
Heres a vid to get you started, look for the ones by RSW solutions
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8Gdsc6880c"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8Gdsc6880c[/ame]
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welcome to the forum Rolo. As you have found, the guys here absolutely ROCK!
They have sooo much knowledge and are really friendly.
Having not long purchased our first P38 too and being in a similar basket as yourself with the previously done repairs, I was hoping to not have to do too much either. (Long story that you don't need to hear).
The great thing is that as they guys have alluded to these cars are great to work on and well worth every hour/dollar you spend. Despite the fact that I am still pretty new, I'll throw my limited knowledge in if I can be of help.
Enjoy the experience (car and forum)
Cheers
Porchy
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I totally agree Porchy and thanks for the offer of help. I'm very encouraged that there will always be help on hand when needed. My initial "OMG what I have I done" reaction is subsiding and slowly I have a growing confidence that with a little work and money of course (what car doesn't need a steady injection of maintenance funds) I'll be able to keep her on the road with the help and support found here.
