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Thread: Engine Balancing? - Broken Flexplate

  1. #1
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    Engine Balancing? - Broken Flexplate

    Hey Guys,

    97 P38 HSE 4.6 and It appears i have a broken flex plate...AGAIN!!

    Brief run down.

    May 2009 - Engine Rebuilt & Balanced with Flanged Liners, 9.55:1 Pistons, High Lift cam etc...
    - Blown Welsh plug within 50km's of starting engine, head removed and repaired
    - Noticed vibration, told not to worry about it
    - Tappet noise on cold startup

    August 2009
    - Flex Plate Broke (bolts not done to right torque - or so we thought)
    - Rebuilt Gearbox & Balanced TC due to wear on the Torque converter spigot. Reinstalled by gearbox builder.

    Easter 2010
    - Engine started misfiring on easter Trip. Engine done about 20K
    - After several months and mechanics, my local diagnosed stripped camshaft.
    - Engine rebuilder agreed to reapair
    - New cam, lifters etc...

    May 2010
    - Car returned, noticed engine vibration was still there
    - Tappet noise on cold startup still exists

    November 2011
    - Noticed vibration slightly worse
    - December, noticed rattling/crashing noise on Idle

    Feb 2012
    - Inspected and noticed Flex plate slightly out alignment with Ringgear bolt holes but no damage to four outer bolt holes, suspect cracked around spigot aligner.

    Engine rebuilder says it happens to them all the time and i should just replace the flexplate.
    My local mechanic says that if the TC has been balanced (which it is unlikely for it to be out of balance) which it has, then the only other cause assusming all fitted correctly is a badly balanced engine. The latter would go along with the vibration.

    The vibration occurs just off Idle, bit like a lump, but is bad at 3000rpm. Engine has now done 40K

    Any thoughts? My only suggestion has been to rebalance the motor, $4K+

    Sorry about the long confusing post...but i need this sorted.

    Scoobee

  2. #2
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    The most common cause of broken flex plates is due to misalignment. In the LR V8's sometimes one of the engine-to-bell housing dowels is lost during removal.

  3. #3
    p38arover's Avatar
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    I had a full balance done on mine when it was rebuilt. Cost under $400.

    When the torque converter is removed, have them check the nose of the TC and the matching hub aligner on the crank. Mine was damaged and probably caused the second flexplate failure.

    I had a new hub aligner fitted and the TC repaired.







    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  4. #4
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    ewww, hammery.....

    to check them for round cut a piece of carbon paper to exactly the circumference of the inner race and install it then face the TC up to it on some long guide bolts.

    bring it home replacing the bolts one at a time till its just touching evenly (you still want it to slide) then very slowly turn the engine over by hand.

    remove the TC carefully and eyeball the witness marks the carbon paper has left, if you see very distinct lines that run forwards and back (that you cant attribute to getting it in and out) clean it up and install the TC in a different position and go again. (and with the crank in a different starting position)

    If the marks come up in the same way in the same position relative to the crank then the crank is potentially damaged. If the marks come up the same relative to the TC then the TC is damaged. IF you get 2 new sets of marks that look similar to the first lot then both are gone.

    Careful Repetition of the test adjusting the start position of the crank AND the relative position of the TC is important to ensure that its not misalignment on installation thats causing the problems
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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    p38arover's Avatar
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    Probably not so easy to do in the car, Dave.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  6. #6
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    still doable. you have to pull either the box or the engine to get to the TC... It'd be a lot of a bugger to do on your back on the floor under the vehicle with the Box out.

    IMO Its a check that you should do IF youve had a damaged flex plate but dont have obvious signs (like the photos you put up) of hammering on the TC and the Spigot) I think its especially important if you're thinking about reusing the TC.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #7
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    Thanks Ron, i had seen your photos, and looked the first time the plate broke. I'm just concerned why this has happened again. Last thing i want is to fix the flex plate, then have to replace it again in another 20K.

    Sorry, I left a bit out....

    When the gearbox was done, the gearbox builder knew that the flex plate had broken, so they double checked alignment, and also installed a new spigot. Plus they also found that one of the dowels was missing, so it was reinstalled. I also went through all this the first time the plate broke.

    My question is in regards to the vibration.. Does anyone think it could be a badly balanced engine, that has caused the plate to break again. Ever heard of this before?

    Stu

  8. #8
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    yes, but not so much overall engine balance but the harmonic balancer. It was stiffer than an alcoholics nightcap. changed that and no more weird drone at certain RPMS and AFAIK it hasnt done a plate since.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
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    Motor is out!

    Well, finally got around to gettting the motor out. The poor old girl has been sitting in the driveway for 6 months

    And this is the result



    The big thing i have noticed is that the Cracks are directly between the bolts.

    Thoughts, Suggestions? I'm considering VCAT as this motor has been a disaster from day one.

  10. #10
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    Have you spoke to the eng guy about i have a mate doing vcat and he went through the same as you ..
    Its looking good for but time is a big part...

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