Yep Paul, thats what I done!
I will follow up next week after a solid week of driving to work, But I'm mildly confident.
Rob
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Yep Paul, thats what I done!
I will follow up next week after a solid week of driving to work, But I'm mildly confident.
Rob
Ok, i've taken the sensor off again and re-aligned it. I noticed that the sensor came with a seperate bracket that mounts the sensor in a certain angle, as soon as i re-mounted it, the sensor value matched all the other sensors and all is good now, except i discovered a leak at the valve block which i quickly fixed, then noticed the vehicle raising much too slow and the compressor constantly cutting in & out. Upon closer inspection and dismantling the compressor noticed the piston seal worn. So on the computer i go and order a new seal & piston chamber off Paul ( HardRange), re-assembled compressor temporarily and still drivable til the parts arrive.Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulP38a
RedAndy - just sent you an email about the cylinder and seal. There might be a quicker way to get them to you for the weekend.
Cheers, Paul.
Loaner compressor eh ;-)
I am running two factory compressors in series on mine as a safeguard in the event one decides to pack up! Made a habit of checking the flow from each one on a 6month basis!
Cheers
Keithy
Yes, yes,yes! Don't forget we VIC-AULRO'ians have access to a spare compressor if you want to borrow and rebuild it first.
You can then just do the swap out and give me back your old one.
I also have your bush kit ready and refund happening when you let me know account details (or could do cash if we can hook up some time soon).
That's impressive! Do they both start at the same time triggered by the pressure switch?Quote:
Originally Posted by Keithy P38
I've been wondering about the feasibility of blanking off the pressure switch hole in the valve block and relocating the switch to the main tank...don't know if this is realistic. In the grand scheme of things I'd also consider relocating the whole setup to the space where the jack etc is located in the wheel well ---am sorely tempted. :confused:
Hey Hoges,
That would make dual battery wiring and snorkel plumbing solutions much easier to fit in.
Dave
That's right, second compressor runs at the exact same time as the other factory compressor. Has its own wiring, fuse and relay! It's triggered off the main compressor start/stop wire (I had it wired up by an auto leccy).
I have photo's, etc but can't upload them because I'm using my iPhone until Wednesday!
Cheers
Keithy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoges
I did think of that too ie. relocating the compressor setup to the wheel well.
This would probably reduce the heat build up in the EAS box by up to 90% probably the o-rings and any rubber & plastic components in the valve block would last a lot longer.
And of course there is the possibility of using a compressor with a higher flow rate......I was already looking at the OEM ones from Mercedes Benz or even BMW's. I would imagine that it would be best then to run an aluminum or a copper pipe between the compressor and the air tank.
Any ideas on how to mount the pressure switch on the air tank though?
I 'm trying to rationalise the trade off between expected ( improved) reliability vs ease of access ..i.e. simply raising the bonnet vs having to empty the load space to remove the wheel well cover...
Re the pressure switch: I'd take advice about simply drilling the end cap of the pressure cylinder, and tapping it to accept the pressure switch.
The harness would be relatively straight forward - run a multicore cable internally (under the carpet and door sills). There are grommet holes already in the rear under panel for 6mm nylon pressure tubing. Mounting the whole box and dice on a rubber pad ought damp the noise/vibration nicely;)
Could then mount the emergency bypass Schrader valves somewhere on the end of the side panel which encloses the subwoofer...
I obviously have not got enough to do...or I'm escaping domestic chores...hell isn't that why we have P38s?:eek::p
EDIT: It just occurred to me that maybe the valve block and drive box are relocated while the compressor remains in the engine bay...was thinking about aircooling which would be non-existent in the wheel well ...cos mine doesn't leak anymore:p