EAS, mind of its own!

I mainly did it to fit in my shed with the roof rack on, but found so many uses for it.
The p38s can drive around on access anyway, but would be usefull to freeze the system for working on it etc. and very usefull for heavy offroad work, where your cross axled and the eas would take air out of the dropped bag, or to stop the system going into extended mode so you've got more usefull articulation.
The power cut to the ecu was usefull for catching soft faults quickly, and locking the system in high. The power can be flicked off and on at any speed with no issue.


It was the start of an auxilary air system that was to use the bullbar as the tank, but never really got to that stage.

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Originally Posted by Keithy P38

The door open switch sounds like a winner!

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X2. As long as you could still lock and alarm car (which would be a TBC I guess) it could kill off self leveling.

Its now been a week after having the EAS block overhauled and all is good, no great. This is truly a good system if you know what you are doing.
After assessing the wear on the "O" rings and the operation I'm not convinced all of them need changing on a very regular basis, when you consider that on the whole block, only 3 would be considered "dynamic" ( check valves ) and all the others are static, or non moving, so the only reason to replace them was if you had to replace a solenoid piston etc or a leak from the external connections due to vibration, possibly. with that in mind I've read that it was suggested that the block be o/hauled every 2 years.
I would think that the check valves YES 2 years max and the rest anywhere from 5 years to 10 years or failure. By disturbing static O rings for no good reason is only inviting more possible troubles.
I'd like to throw this out there for more comment.

Rob

I agree with you. Having pulled mine apart about a dozen times after the past I had not come across many of the o rings that were brittle or obviously stuffed. I have kept most of the old ones anyway and will only strip it down if it has a problem. I replaced three airbags (one was a definite leaker and one suspect). driver unit (unneccesary as it turned out) and pressure switch that was intermittently causing problems. Main solenoid problems came from the 4 airbag solenoids for me and not an issue with the Orings. It was all about the rubber caps and bottoms on the internal pistons. But now its all working and I am a lot more clued up on its intricate workings and love it, plus have the confidence now of taking it all apart where ever I may be.

Are the pistons under the solenoids available to purchase, as these are also dynamic items also prone to wear on the sealing surface.

Not that I have found, I just had to lightly sand the bottom rubber with wet and dry sandpaper and superglued the top rubber cap into place on each piston. Seemed to work so far but would be handy to have new replacement ones if they were available.

All fair comments, but if your going to the trouble of pulling it down why wouldn't you refresh the lot?

I found that a number of the rings looked ok shape wise but were dry, stiff and ultimately cracked when I gave them a bit of a squeeze. No doubt the result of 17 years under a mostly hot and dry P38 clamshell.

For the negligible extra cost and time involved (and especially for first timers/novices) I would say "Nike - just do it."