Thread: Compressor constantly running, Why??

You have a persistent leak somewhere.

did you squirt soapy water over the valve block exhaust outlet to see if it's an internal leak?

It's also possible you have an airbag leak... try squirting the soapy water around the inlet on each airbag and see if there's a leak there... have you checked for cracks etc in the bags?

Raise the vehicle to Max, wait for the compressor to stop and see how long it takes to restart, try the same at the Access height. If the compressor behaviour is significantly different (= improved) at these heights vs. Standard height it could be a split that is self sealing...

Reason: A hairline split may develop in the bellows at normal height because it sits at that level the most and hence the bellows deforms and gets stretched continuously at the point where it turns over on itself. It may however self-seal when either at Max or Access heights because that section of the bellows is no longer deformed and is in fact "compressed" compared to what it was before....

If there's no change it could still be a bellows problem...just a different one! ...more soapy water and lots of silence to listen for the dreaded "hiss"!!

Good luck

Originally Posted by Hoges

You have a persistent leak somewhere.

did you squirt soapy water over the valve block exhaust outlet to see if it's an internal leak?

It's also possible you have an airbag leak... try squirting the soapy water around the inlet on each airbag and see if there's a leak there... have you checked for cracks etc in the bags?

Raise the vehicle to Max, wait for the compressor to stop and see how long it takes to restart, try the same at the Access height. If the compressor behaviour is significantly different (= improved) at these heights vs. Standard height it could be a split that is self sealing...

Reason: A hairline split may develop in the bellows at normal height because it sits at that level the most and hence the bellows deforms and gets stretched continuously at the point where it turns over on itself. It may however self-seal when either at Max or Access heights because that section of the bellows is no longer deformed and is in fact "compressed" compared to what it was before....

If there's no change it could still be a bellows problem...just a different one! ...more soapy water and lots of silence to listen for the dreaded "hiss"!!

Good luck

Checked it out, there doesn't seem to be a hiss. I'm guessing the thin air line might be to blame. Just tested it again and this time it stopped and didn't switch back on till i started to raise and lower the vehicle. Don't know, will keep an eye out.

Yeah don't know......... I drove all the way up to Cape York and back without any issues or faults with the EAS, however the compressor is still behaving strangely. I'm wondering weather the compressor after switching on and off about five times then stops for a while is a result of the compressor overheating with the thermal switch intervening. I'm still yet to test for leaks at all levels as Hoges suggested (might do that tomorrow), but am not convinced that that could be the problem. I did notice also a slight re-adjustment of the springs when driving on Normal ride height, it has got me slightly stumped!!. I'm also wondering if that is the Normal erratic behaviour of the EAS.

When you overhauled the piston and barrel it might not have gone well.
Possibly you are only just making the pressure cut off switch set point, just.
And with a small leak pressure drops then the cycle starts again its like a bouncing ball.
Its handy to know how much pressure you have in the receiver.
I have put a shrader valve in my receiver drain plug, this allows me to put air in and take air out of my receiver and check the pressure in there.

If you leave the RR over night with the relay out of the EAS ECU does one side drop more than any of the other 3?

Originally Posted by RR P38

When you overhauled the piston and barrel it might not have gone well.
Possibly you are only just making the pressure cut off switch set point, just.
And with a small leak pressure drops then the cycle starts again its like a bouncing ball.
Its handy to know how much pressure you have in the receiver.
I have put a shrader valve in my receiver drain plug, this allows me to put air in and take air out of my receiver and check the pressure in there.

If you leave the RR over night with the relay out of the EAS ECU does one side drop more than any of the other 3?

Possibly, will have to check it out. Do you think maybe the valve block itself maybe leaking?

The pressure does remain in the air tank as when I start the car in the morning, it pumps straight up without delay, but think maybe one of the solenoid maybe leaking.

Take off the cover and spray test the valve block around the solenoid bases (without drowning anything) of the top ones. You will probably find bubbling if you have inadvertantly crushed some of the really small inner (flat, thin) rings. If so, undo it and test the botom ones as well.

I was silly enough to give them a twirl when I did mine (thinking I would seat them better) and wrecked the majority of them.

Also, your compressor might need a kit through it if that hasn't been done before.

Could it possibly be the small o-ring in the compressor head?

You mean the one that seals against the reed valve? -

Quite likely. Mine was sort of melted, due to not sealing 101%, therefore the compressor took longer to build up pressure, which meant it got hotter, which softened the rubber even more and some stuck to the reed which meant it sealed less, so the pump had to run longer....

A tiny leak will result in total pump failure, eventually.