Reply With QuoteI did exactly the same and cut an access panel in too. I replaced my pump with a Holden version and 6 months on it's cactus - I've just ordered a replacement pump from Island 4x4 for 40 quid
Master
SupporterI ran out of fuel the other day due to a bad sender unit showing the wrong level. I switched to LPG and drove to a fuel station no problem. I got 98 litres into the tank so it was really empty! After I filled it with premium, it wouldnt start on fuel. No matter how long I cranked it.
There was no pressure at the fuel rail schraeder valve. I switched out the fuel pump relay - no change. The fuel pump fuse was blown, but after replacing it, it still didnt start! I couldnt hear the fuel pump running, but then I never really have. I opened the petrol cap to vent, no improvement. I was getting voltage at the fuel pump connector. With the access hole cut I could hear the pump running, but it must have been too weak to pressurise the system. Either way, running out of fuel is a bad idea, as it finished off my pump, and somehow made the fuel pump fuse blow.
I decided I needed to put another fuel pump in, but I had just filled it with 98 litres which makes it hard to drop the tank down. I have another tank and pump, so I opted to open up the floor under the back seat and access that way. Here are some pics and lessons learned.
Main instructions here on RR.net.
Excellent pics of the cut dimensions here.
I cut the carpet with a stanley knife and then cut the insulation out in a square piece. Then I cut the metal floor with a dremel (I went through about 7 crappy little discs) being careful not to go deep and cut any of the fuel tank pipes. Turned out to be no problem. The cutting only took about 1.5 hrs. Then I bent up the new access hole plate and took the hose to it for 15 minutes, to wash all the crud away from the pump retaining ring. Then I used a hair dryer to thoroughly dry the area.
It was easy to get the pump retaining ring off and on without the LR tool, I just used hammer and screwdriver carefully. I reused the existing fuel pump rubber gasket - if it comes off the tank with the pump, remember to put that gasket onto the tank before finalising the pump in its position, you wont be able to get the gasket to sit right if you leave it attached to the pump.
Back to the old fuel filter position question - there is none visible or obvious on the 99+ models. It certainly isnt under the sil like in the GEMS models. I thought there was one in the tank, but I found no such filter in there.
So it fired up after the new pump went in, and the fuel gauge works again! Also, I have a tidy access hole for the next pump to be changed.
Here is the alternate link for the pics.
Now: 2005 L322 Vogue 4.4 M62TU (Black)
Before: 2000 P38A HSE 4.6 - stately capability | 2008 Kluger KX-S | 2004 Forester | 2000 Yamaha XJR1300 | 1993 VR Calais | 1974 HQ Statesman - 308 V8 | HT | HK
Master
I did exactly the same and cut an access panel in too. I replaced my pump with a Holden version and 6 months on it's cactus - I've just ordered a replacement pump from Island 4x4 for 40 quid
Wizard
Now you have done all the hard work could you do a little more. All the write-ups I have seen and read are for the pre 99 type Pump / sender.
Now you have your later unit out can you take out the Pump and show us some pics.
I would like to know if it can be replaced easily with a generic pump like the earlier model.
The Thor units are not available cheaply as the earlier ones are on ebay.
This issue of running out of fuel has been discussed before, Its happened to me when the gauge was showing just below a 1/4 tank. Can you see if there is anything catching on the Float. The view was that a buildup of crud was the cause and running a few bottles of injector cleaner through the system cleaned it. I am very weary of running the tank below 1/4. The fuel in the tank acts as a coolant to the pump so maybe thats why yours fried.
Fossicker
I ordered a pump from the uk, specified original (OEM) but what arrived was what appeared to be a cheap knock off, so did not fit it.
I'm interested to know where you sourced your pump and what it cost, if you don't mind sharing that with us
YarnMaster
SubscriberA very neat job!
For some reason LR discontinued the fuel filter for the Australian spec "Thor" upgrade vehicles, but retained it in the Nth American spec ones...I was under the impression, wrongly it seems, that there may have been a gauze bag attached to the inlet pipe.
Should not be too difficult to insert a filter in the line near the tank... I bought a Ryco one for my daughter's Mazda 121 the other day ... it's a decent size and all metal... possibly worth a thought
Master
KarKraftOriginally Posted by Sydr
FUEL PUMP - R/ROV (1995>98)(MA>WA) STC4344 <A> $334.29
<C> $231.00
FUEL PUMP - R/ROV (1999>02)(XA>)WFX101400 $628.94
Wizard
There are Dozens of sellers on E-bay UK selling the stc4344 for around 50 pounds ( $75 ) you just need to find one who will post to Aus.
There are sellers in the States selling at $150 shipped
The Thor unit cheap is like finding hens teeth.
YarnMaster
SubscriberFuel-Emissions | Range Rover P38A | British Parts UK
scroll down page: about $360 +postage for the Thor version. Have found this crowd to be quite reasonable on freight...
Master
SupporterI got a wrecked P38 (see here) and stripped it, so I had a tank complete with pump. I have used the pump now, so I will sell the tank cheap. The car had done 165kkm when it crashed, so I dont expect the pump to last forever.
Now: 2005 L322 Vogue 4.4 M62TU (Black)
Before: 2000 P38A HSE 4.6 - stately capability | 2008 Kluger KX-S | 2004 Forester | 2000 Yamaha XJR1300 | 1993 VR Calais | 1974 HQ Statesman - 308 V8 | HT | HK
Wizard
Glen, I have just cut the access hole , no problems. Its all spotlessly cleaned ready for removal when my generic pump arrives.
A couple of questions on removal. Electric plug, no issues, big pipe, no issues, the small pipe has a strange connection, can you remember how that comes apart
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