Reply With QuoteANY movement in an universal joint is a sign of advanced wear. The rollers dig themselves little grooves and struggle to get out of them.
Master
SupporterOk so mine is closed loop 98%...UJs on front shaft had less than 0.5mmm wiggle either way and did noy feel sloppy, rear O2 sensors just have bolt in their place (I am a fool)...
This hose here was a little loose so tightened:
Front O2 sensor:
Not sure why big shudder under heavy acceleration (where it feels like no power is actually going to the wheels)...perhaps it is all down to the MAF, and engine/gearbox mounts to check as they alone don't explain LTFT 25%. I pulled the MAF while truck running and that stopped it and ran when restarting without it but no great difference at least at idle.
AT REST
ANY movement in an universal joint is a sign of advanced wear. The rollers dig themselves little grooves and struggle to get out of them.
Master
SupporterOh ok was expecting a bit more slop...but rechecking yes enough to get a clunking sound wiggling back and forth.
Master
SupporterLocal shop... UJ $50 each, 1 hour each to (2x$78) exc GST... the front and rear UJ are both the same aren't they? I gotta be able to do this myself.
Master
SupporterFinally a win!!!
Found that the cruise control brake switch was out of place and managed to resecure it and test it to find now working as it should
Master
SupporterWow, we fixed this exact problem on my brother's P38 2 nights ago! (After removing, airbag, steering wheel, rotary coupling, CC ECU, CC inverter).Originally Posted by Tikka7mm08
Finally a win!!!
Found that the cruise control brake switch was out of place and managed to resecure it and test it to find now working as it should
The UJs are easily doable if you have good work area and tools. And still doable if you dont.Call me if you get stuck. 0414 six78 888.
Now: 2005 L322 Vogue 4.4 M62TU (Black)
Before: 2000 P38A HSE 4.6 - stately capability | 2008 Kluger KX-S | 2004 Forester | 2000 Yamaha XJR1300 | 1993 VR Calais | 1974 HQ Statesman - 308 V8 | HT | HK
Master
SupporterOnly required removing the two panels and a piece of heating ducting... i don't think they are held in very well at all...but easy to fix if it pops out in the future. I tested the vacuum by sucking the pipe at the actuator end and couldn't suck any air this time - put is back together and took for a test drive. Was thinking I wouldn't miss not having CC but loved having it working.
Might have a crack at the UJs...sounds like that is the vibration issue. Can get them from lrdirect.com but which one as there are a heap of makes??
Propshaft Uj Def Ds1 Ds2 Rr P38 | TVC100010 - Land Rover
Wizard
The Hardy Spicers are the one's. Can't go wrong I understand - unless you're talking an upgrade (double cardon shaft).
Great work so far fella. Don't get dis-heartened. Its a learning process. These aren't simple cars and there are lots of issues/solutions. I've made plenty of mistakes - but have lots more confidence now when it comes to issues (I'm no guru/grand wizard by any means).
Master
SupporterPicked up these GKM ones:
2 x UJ RTC3458 TVC100010 GKN Defender Discovery Range Rover BARRY4X4 | eBay
ChatterBox
There is a fairly steep initial learning curve with these beasts
UJ's are not a hard job but read RAVE and anything you can find. Make sure you make good alignment marks to get it back in the same spot as well!
Steve
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