Reply With QuoteWhat a shame! iSN'T THAT a bit young in ks to have happened?
YarnMaster
SubscriberCasual conversation with a fellow AULORIAN yesterday and a quick engine inspection revealed a whiff of coolant, hot water level in the overflow tank on the line for "cold" level and a rock hard top radiator hose...
Bosch series, 4.6, 145k Km
Have read most of the posts (thanks PaulP38!) But need some advice please: Is there a complete gasket set available for such a job or should the parts be sourced individually? Supplier?
I suspect the cam needs replacing judging by the photos I took of the of the lobes when I did the lifters/rockers... Any thoughts for replacement.. Am thinking about replacing with a standard grind but wondering if there is a grind which puts max torque in a slightly lower rev range? Supplier?
Looking at studs rather than stretch bolts : recommendations pls?
Sorry about all the questions: Head gaskets I can deal with...I dare not entertain thoughts at this stage of a slipped liner! Being a "Bosch" series I'm hoping I safe on that one
All advice gratefully received...just when I have the front end sorted with new ball joints etc
cheers
Master
What a shame! iSN'T THAT a bit young in ks to have happened?
Wizard
I can recommend the ARP stud kits for the Rovers.
I just did my 3.9L V8 using these, sourced locally from Fabre.
I'm not familiar with the cam options for 4.6 engines, but I decided just to go stock grind with mine (and new lifters of course). I couldn't honestly ask for more power, and really didn't feel like an experiment. The accepted wisdom with the 3.5 and 3.9 engines is that substantial differences in cam durations and timing are only worth considering if you are also willing to do head work, since flow it the limiting factor in stock form. Someone with more experience with the 4.6 engines will be able to comment I'm sure.
The only advice I can give with camshaft replacement is whatever you use, degree it in properly. I used a Rollmaster timing chain kit on my build and I was surprised to find that I needed to use the 4° advance keyway to achieve standard factory timing. I was so surprised by this that I measured timing with both the old and new cams with both the old and new timing sets more than once. All pointed towards the +4° being the true 0° mark. Had I not invested the time checking and just "chucked it in" at 0° I would have lost out on the one thing I really love about the V8 - the willingness to work right off idle.
Swaggie
All good advice above, the 4.6 also benefits from standard factory cam profile unless substantial other changes are made.
The cam timing needs to be degree checked, as stated, as 4 degrees is a quite substantial amount of adjustment to make up and no surprises the performance is way better.
JC
Fossicker
Hi Hoges, is your top radiator hose hard with the engine running or with it off, I too can smell coolant from my engine so you now have me worried. I have no custard in the oil filler cap?
Regards
David
YarnMaster
SubscriberHi David,Originally Posted by David
Hi Hoges, is your top radiator hose hard with the engine running or with it off, I too can smell coolant from my engine so you now have me worried. I have no custard in the oil filler cap?
Regards
David
answer is "engine off"... had just done about 50km on freeway so it was at proper operating temp. Had been parked for a couple of minutes when we made observation... Oil filler cap is clean
Good luck!
YarnMaster
SubscriberNope...can happen anytime... luck of the draw I guess. I would have expected it to happen a lot later but have seen examples on other marques from as low as 25,000 km though it is more common I am told on engines with iron blocks and alumiinium heads due to different coefficients of expansion. That's not the case with the 4.6 but at least the repair is DIY "do-able" with a decent set of spanners:
Master
SupporterHey Hoges,
How is that head gasket replacement going? Would be interested to find out where the fault was located. i had to replace mine a few weeks ago but it was just a blow out of gases to the outside and didnt effect the oil or coolant.
YarnMaster
SubscriberUmmm not started yet..flew to Cairns for a week to have some "time" with my new grandson!
Peter, did you get your bits and pieces locally or did you get them from the UK?
I have started the planning and am putting a list together of what's needed..
cheers
A.
Master
SupporterI purchased the head gasket kit from Island 4x4 in the Uk plus new head bolts. I didnt end up using the new valve stem seals or injector o-rings plus a few other bits and pieces that were in the kit. There were two kits available and I purchased the more expensive kit at 44 pounds. It has a better head gasket. All up with the bolts and postage was less than $A140 and got it delivered within a week.
The only other costs were new oil, oil filter, coolant and the shaving of the heads. ( Heads shaved cost $220 for both). I was lucky as there was little damage to the head surface from the blown gasket and I had run the car for over 6,000 km with it as I thought it was an exhaust manifold leak. I was expecting it to be torched and in need of a weld repair as well before machining.
Have since done over 3500kms and all is sweet so far.
Admittedly I had an experienced mechanic at call when I was stuck or unsure but found the process not too difficult albeit time consuming. 1 day pull down, 1 day cleaning and get heads done, 1 day putting it all together. ( note they were short daylight days and averaged 6hrs each day with plenty of the usual coffee breaks).
In the event it happens again I would be much more confident. Apparently my heads had been machined previously (at least thats what the machinist said) so not sure how many times it can be done but hopefully I wont need to for a few more years at least.
Good luck with it Hoges and dont forget the key code sequence to re enable the engine. I did, until wife intervened and started car up.
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