Thread: open circuit camshaft sensor

I have a similar fault i=on my D2 since I fitted the 4.6. But again the price (and location) has precluded me investigating. Doesn't seem to have too detrimental effect on running. But hard to know as I hven't compared to a good one.

there are 2 options depending on your VIN

check out: Electrical | Range Rover P38A | British Parts UK

I've just pulled mine out as part of changing camshaft etc (not for faint hearted ) I'll put the meter on it tomorrow and see if I can make sense of it...

Thank Hoges, unfortunately mine is TA32, so it's the more expensive one. When changing the cam, were you able to leave the motor in place, and the aircon condensor hooked up? Mine is well overdue for lifters, and most likely the cam also.

I had a stroke of luck late last night though, and something you may want to investigate on your D2; I disconnected the sensor and the plug was chocka full of oil, I cleaned it out and have done two drive cycles since and the fault hasn't resurfaced.

Idle is a lot smoother (though i've still a dodgy IACV) and it's got slightly more torque as I think the injection cycle was 180 degrees out.

How easy is it to get to the sensor? By rave pics it looks like it's behind (at least partially) the crank pulley. This is part of my reluctance to getting in there and looking at it.

Having an unknown year sourced 4.6 in my D2 I also have the issue of ID'ing the sensor to order as well. Though I probably used the original, memory fades and ...

Long post...sorry! Further, camera met with an accident ...was resting in the tool box (don't ask...actually it was me...)

Mine's a P38 (4.6 Thor)... though I suspect the various access dimensions etc are similar.

When I removed the camshaft sensor it was covered in oil also... but I would expect this as it "reads" via Hall effect the camshaft sprocket...

1. Clubagreenie: you are correct... the crank pulley needs to be removed first to gain proper access to the camshaft sensor.

In the absence of a suitable "special" tool, I removed the pulley by gripping it with a "stilsen" plumber's wrench HOWEVER the pulley was properly protected with stiff rubber strips I had superglued to the wrench jaws plus an old serpentine belt draped over the pulley which further prevented the serrations on the jaws damaging the channels in any way. I got the idea from one of the "landy" fora....

Other techniques: jamming a bar in the ring gear (disastrous if it chips a tooth!!); or, remove the sump and (with some help) jam a block of wood between a crankshaft weight and side of the block (a lot of work if the sump doesn't have to be removed otherwise)...

The wrench is attached as follows: think of it as an F shape . Think of the pulley silouhette as ] . The open jaws approach from the front and grip one side of the pulley. ...represented by the bottom lug on the ] symbol

I stood on a small step ladder and put one leg into the engine bay and stood on the end of the wrench which was resting on the chassis rail. I then put a 24mm 6pt socket on a long breaker bar and rotated it anticlockwise (i.e towards the driver's side) With sustained (lifting) effort on the bar it finally gave way with out the need for an aggressive push ... the channels on the pulley wheel were untouched.

Note the pulley is a harmonic balancer... it's a $700 replacement item if it is damaged!!!


2. I've had the heads done... hardness/pressure tested, "planed", valve seats re-cut, valves machined and lapped in, new stem seals on inlet valves only: the chaps advised me NOT to replace the valve stem oil seals on the exhaust valves to reduce the likelihood of sticking.... They do most of the head repairs for local LR dealers and indies and this is their standard practice (I was quite pleased to advise them that several of AULRO's "in house experts" agree with this approach!! )

3. Camshaft: I can see that if one has the room and a secure setup, removing the engine is the way to go. However....

I examined the cam intently (in place) with a magnifying glass and discovered evidence of deterioration around the edges of some of the lobes. I'd replaced lifters and rockers some 20,000 km ago and although these "new" lifters showed no signs of wear there was obvious 'staining' on the cam lobes...

I've bought a new standard issue camshaft from KarKraft...did a full estimate of costs for a package (Elring gaskets/cam/ chain/sprockets etc) from the UK and with delivery etc the difference was less than $100 on a $700 order. Not worth the risk of a dud order from o'seas on this occasion ....

4. Today I will try and remove the sump and front cover. This requires disconnection of the oil cooler pipes from the bottom of the block.

5. I need to remove the evap cooler, auto trans cooler and oil cooler out of the way...some how. There seems sufficient 'give' in the rubber hose lengths to rotate them all either upwards (with help) or outwards to remove the cam...

6. Will let you know how it goes!

Originally Posted by Hoges

Long post...sorry! Further, camera met with an accident ...was resting in the tool box (don't ask...actually it was me...)

Mine's a P38 (4.6 Thor)... though I suspect the various access dimensions etc are similar.

When I removed the camshaft sensor it was covered in oil also... but I would expect this as it "reads" via Hall effect the camshaft sprocket...

1. Clubagreenie: you are correct... the crank pulley needs to be removed first to gain proper access to the camshaft sensor.

In the absence of a suitable "special" tool, I removed the pulley by gripping it with a "stilsen" plumber's wrench HOWEVER the pulley was properly protected with stiff rubber strips I had superglued to the wrench jaws plus an old serpentine belt draped over the pulley which further prevented the serrations on the jaws damaging the channels in any way. I got the idea from one of the "landy" fora....

Other techniques: jamming a bar in the ring gear (disastrous if it chips a tooth!!); or, remove the sump and (with some help) jam a block of wood between a crankshaft weight and side of the block (a lot of work if the sump doesn't have to be removed otherwise)...

The wrench is attached as follows: think of it as an F shape . Think of the pulley silouhette as ] . The open jaws approach from the front and grip one side of the pulley. ...represented by the bottom lug on the ] symbol

I stood on a small step ladder and put one leg into the engine bay and stood on the end of the wrench which was resting on the chassis rail. I then put a 24mm 6pt socket on a long breaker bar and rotated it anticlockwise (i.e towards the driver's side) With sustained (lifting) effort on the bar it finally gave way with out the need for an aggressive push ... the channels on the pulley wheel were untouched.

Note the pulley is a harmonic balancer... it's a $700 replacement item if it is damaged!!!


2. I've had the heads done... hardness/pressure tested, "planed", valve seats re-cut, valves machined and lapped in, new stem seals on inlet valves only: the chaps advised me NOT to replace the valve stem oil seals on the exhaust valves to reduce the likelihood of sticking.... They do most of the head repairs for local LR dealers and indies and this is their standard practice (I was quite pleased to advise them that several of AULRO's "in house experts" agree with this approach!! )

3. Camshaft: I can see that if one has the room and a secure setup, removing the engine is the way to go. However....

I examined the cam intently (in place) with a magnifying glass and discovered evidence of deterioration around the edges of some of the lobes. I'd replaced lifters and rockers some 20,000 km ago and although these "new" lifters showed no signs of wear there was obvious 'staining' on the cam lobes...

I've bought a new standard issue camshaft from KarKraft...did a full estimate of costs for a package (Elring gaskets/cam/ chain/sprockets etc) from the UK and with delivery etc the difference was less than $100 on a $700 order. Not worth the risk of a dud order from o'seas on this occasion ....

4. Today I will try and remove the sump and front cover. This requires disconnection of the oil cooler pipes from the bottom of the block.

5. I need to remove the evap cooler, auto trans cooler and oil cooler out of the way...some how. There seems sufficient 'give' in the rubber hose lengths to rotate them all either upwards (with help) or outwards to remove the cam...

6. Will let you know how it goes!

I am also very interested to know how you get on changing the cam with the engine in situe. I have all the parts ready for the day so any tips will be welcomed