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Thread: Engine disabled and flashing hazards

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Engine disabled and flashing hazards

    Last night went to the car and as FOB doesnt work well and use manual key entry. (Have been for sometime now).
    Unlock drivers door and notice central locking has not activated the other doors to unlock... and then car hazards start flashing for about 20 seconds. key in ignition and engine disabled.
    Ok this has happened before so solution is key code access.
    Unfortunately, car does not accept key code access. For some reason the hazards continue on this 20 sec flashing routine everytime the drivers door was opened. Ok thought it may need to sit for 30minutes to reset.
    Retry and same deal. checked all doors, bonnet etc are closed but still no joy.
    Had to bugger around with FOB to activate door opening by FOB and got going but same situation this morning.
    Can anyone explain what is happening to it and why the flashing hazards status wont allow key code access to be activated.
    By the way the car was locked on all occassions and nothing was left open for the car to disable itself. Any ideas appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Hi Peter, some thoughts: could be deteriorating door lock set in driver's door; faulty earth points; starting battery below optimal voltage.
    If you have a Faultmate, you can disable the immobiliser completely so that it's simply a manual mechanical locking routine. Hope you get it sorted!
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
    2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
    2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)

  3. #3
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    Hi Hoges , you are probably right as it has only happened on the odd occassion and has not played up since the other day. Usually when you need to go somewhere in a hurry.

  4. #4
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    I had a key issue where when taking out the ignition key the car would continue running. A good dose of graphite solved that one, you may like to try that first?

    Jonathan

  5. #5
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    Believe the issue is the driver's door lock mechanism as Hoges mentioned previously. The key seems to sometimes only lock the drivers door and not activate the central locking. If this occurs and I leave the car without realising that has happened, it sends the car into safe mode and disables the engine and whatever else it thinks will **** me off and anyone else who is silly enough to want to steal it. It may just need a bit of graphite in the lock so will try that first to see if that fixes the intermittent problem for a while. I might even fix the FOB so that I don't have to use the key anymore...yeah right.

  6. #6
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    If you still have the original drivers latch mechanism, then its "due". I had similar issues. You should try your eka, if it doesnt work, then its likely the microswitches on the latch.

    Like Hoges said, first triple check good batt voltage, then attack the door latch. There are 3 microswitches on the door latch mechanism IIRC, and its difficult to conclusively identify from key/locking behaviour which is failing or failed.
    Now: 2005 L322 Vogue 4.4 M62TU (Black)
    Before: 2000 P38A HSE 4.6 - stately capability | 2008 Kluger KX-S | 2004 Forester | 2000 Yamaha XJR1300 | 1993 VR Calais | 1974 HQ Statesman - 308 V8 | HT | HK

  7. #7
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    How frustrating that must be!
    I would start with the battery as Hoges mentioned, also the graphite powder idea poleonpom suggested.
    Give the battery terminals a clean up and test the battery/alternator (or get it tested at an auto elecs), I have seen all sorts of weird stuff happen due to low battery.
    If that is not the culprit I guess the door lock is the next step.
    Hope you get it sorted without too much drama!
    Cheers, Pete.

  8. #8
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    Glen

    Are you able to replace the microswitches or is a new complete latch required.

    Trev

  9. #9
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    Just an update on this. I have worked out that there are two issues.
    First is that the car can be secured ok but some garage door remotes will set this scenario off.
    The second is the driver door mechanism, where as if I am in a rush and do not turn the key fully it fails to activate the central locking and then we face the flashing light syndrome again.
    If I recognise that the key entry hasnt worked properly (that is the central unlock has not happened then without opening the vehicle I can set the drivers door back to lock and then unlock fully again and all it fine to go.
    I am not sure why the garage door remote causes this effect and as mentioned previously the drivers door lock is probably due for some attention, but for now all is ok.
    Thanks for the feedback and would be interested to hear if the microswitches are replaceable.

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