Thread: Water Resistant P38

Mulgo do a raised ecu kit for the new defenders, surely it can be done for P38's!

Other essentials would be raised air intake and a good hit of wd40 on the coils and sensors pre crossing.

Thanks Keith.
I was thinking of a sealable plastic box of suitable size ( Tupperware) style to sit the Becm in under the drivers seat with the appropriate cable access holes suitably sealed up with a sealable lid that could easily be installed when required. coiuld even line the bottom with some absorbent material incase of slight leaks to stop any possible pooling. Not that I have any intention of water getting inside but have seen footage of leaks that have created havoc for the unwary. Better to be prepared.
I have read on a uk site that there is adequate cable length to relocate the becm to the inside wall under the dash, but I would prefer to leave it where it is but in a watertight container.

Originally Posted by PeterAllen

Thanks Keith.
I was thinking of a sealable plastic box of suitable size ( Tupperware) style to sit the Becm in under the drivers seat with the appropriate cable access holes suitably sealed up with a sealable lid that could easily be installed when required. coiuld even line the bottom with some absorbent material incase of slight leaks to stop any possible pooling. Not that I have any intention of water getting inside but have seen footage of leaks that have created havoc for the unwary. Better to be prepared.
I have read on a uk site that there is adequate cable length to relocate the becm to the inside wall under the dash, but I would prefer to leave it where it is but in a watertight container.

The top of the BECM is a huge heat sink. Putting it in a tupperware box is inviting it to cook itself internally... Best bet is to raise the EAS to max height and don't exceed max depth of water... or don't cross flooded roads

THere's probably very little to worry about in the engine bay. I degreased mine the other day and gave it an absolute hammering with the pressure washer, especially anything electrical.

It started and ran fine, and whilst running I gave it another go just to see what would happen - nothing.
There's a drain hole in the bottom of the fusebox and ecu housings which i'd be sealing up. Then looking at the gaskets around the fuse box and ecu housing lids - as a tiny bit of water got through; but that's with the pressure nozel 6 inches away.

A couple of years ago we went out for a day with the Subaru club. One of the blokes got his forester bogged up to the review mirrors; and after towing out (after a good 10 minutes in there) there wasn't a drop of water in the cabin.

Have been wondering every since about blocking off the door drain holes and ...the rest?

If you are going to block the drain hole I would make it something removable (a bung) so water escapes when washing the car, etc.

But that does sound like a good idea, blocking the drains. Especially the ecu ones.

I wonder what else might let water in? Spare wheel well?

Hey!

I have had my range rover up to the top of the bonnet in water whilst crossing the daintree river a few times now, ive been stuck in the middle of a river, and ive crossed a few rivers on the way to cape tribulation.

I dont have a raised air intake,
I havent water proofed my ECU or any other electrics

I have driven with caution and after training
I have walked each crossing and stuck to my plan (yep even the daintree with the bloody crocs)
I have always had my recovery gear ready and attached
I have always traveled with other vehicles just in case.

the p38 is a very very capable vehicle which can far exceed the limits set in the handbook. Drive sensibly and with caution, and if you don't think that you will make the crossing, consider sending someone with a snorkel over first to tow you over, or Don't cross the river and find another way over it.

I know Paul from hardrange.com makes a raised air intake for the p38 for extra piece of mind and if you contact your local marine motor guys (like the boating places) they usually have guys that can waterproof ECU's because they use this for outboard motors, just remember it needs to DISSIPATE HEAT and BE WATERPROOF for the ECU.

The only problem with moving the ecu to "higher ground" is that i think that there are thirteen ( im not sure this is just a guess) different conectors in the BECM!!! so thats a massive loom going back up under the dash, not impossible but a hard task no doubt.

Anyhow hope that helps somewhat?
Cheers
Ryan

I havn't had water over hub height on the p38 yet, but have had it a few inches above the windscreen wipers on my 93

I completely agree Razza, the p38s are hugely capable, and if you can keep traction with a good bow wave, water entering the cabin or the engine bay is rarely a problem; but I have been diffed out with water halfway up the doors and it doesn't take long for water to make it's way in (the door latch is another entry point as I found out...)

In the past i've blocked off door drains with gaffa tape, and it works a treat. I forgot to take it off one time, and it held the water perfectly.

I wonder if the door seals would be water tight as they're so much better than the classics.

After my own little episode recently involving water getting inside & into BECM, I did a bit of looking into various entry points to see what I could do to prevent this from occuring again.
Sadly there isn't much hope, even taping drain holes in door ( I reckon this was my entry point ) you would only be delaying the inevitable as just above them are the front speakers which would also allow access and I don't think there is much that could be done unless you were to remove them & seal up holes!
So moral of story don't get stuck in deep water!

If you do, scream out to your mates to get you out pronto before water level rises inside. Ain't that right Dave.