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Thread: aircon trouble

  1. #1
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    aircon trouble

    Greetings fellow LRO's. My 95 P38a RR's a/c on the fritz Had it gassed up Worked fine for two days then not (i.e. blew warm) So you'd have to think leak. Could anyone suggest where to look i.e. most likely places. Any help would be much appreciated. Merry Christmas to one and all

  2. #2
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    Could have done a blend motor? These things hold their gas pretty well...

    Got the chequebook symbol up on your hevac display?

  3. #3
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    no cheque book symbol but cold air does blow for first 5 minutes then warm

  4. #4
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    Another popular problem is the clutch slipping on the compressor. Have a look at the compressor when the engine is running. You'll see and hear it click on/off and the revs drop slightly as it kicks in.
    Gary

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb_gary View Post
    Another popular problem is the clutch slipping on the compressor. Have a look at the compressor when the engine is running. You'll see and hear it click on/off and the revs drop slightly as it kicks in.
    Gary
    check out P38A Aircon Compressor Clutch

    cheers
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
    2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
    2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)

  6. #6
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    aircon trouble

    Thankyou guys for your input I have a feeling the clutch diagnosis to be correct as the a/c works fine till the car reaches running temp. The comp cuts in and out then out till car cools down from not using it .Handy just b4 Christmas holidays. NTW. Thanks again, I love this site and its peoples help. I recently asked 4 help attaching driving lights to a factory soft bull bar and got plenty, ended up making my own brackets so Ill post photos to hopefully help others

  7. #7
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    Bruce, if it is just a shim to remove it only takes under 30 mins.
    Good luck, Gary.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruce p38 View Post
    Thankyou guys for your input I have a feeling the clutch diagnosis to be correct as the a/c works fine till the car reaches running temp. The comp cuts in and out then out till car cools down from not using it .Handy just b4 Christmas holidays. NTW. Thanks again, I love this site and its peoples help. I recently asked 4 help attaching driving lights to a factory soft bull bar and got plenty, ended up making my own brackets so Ill post photos to hopefully help others
    Hi Bruce. Sounds like the system has been over pressurised when it was re-gassed. There is an over pressure switch (also called dual pressure switch) on the system that cuts out the compressor when the system pressure becomes too high after running for a while. Take the car to the people that gassed the system and ask them to evacuate and recharge the system and that should hopefully fix the problem. There can be other causes for the system over pressurising but this is a good place to start.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38oncoils View Post
    Hi Bruce. Sounds like the system has been over pressurised when it was re-gassed. There is an over pressure switch (also called dual pressure switch) on the system that cuts out the compressor when the system pressure becomes too high after running for a while. Take the car to the people that gassed the system and ask them to evacuate and recharge the system and that should hopefully fix the problem. There can be other causes for the system over pressurising but this is a good place to start.
    There's extensive coverage of temp/pressure data in the aircon section of RAVE. If you print the page(s) for your aircon bloke it may provide some guidance for refilling etc.
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
    2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
    2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)

  10. #10
    51jay Guest
    Could also be one of the Temp sensors. check the indicated outside temp on the display. mine showed -53 degrees and once the aircon had settled in it blew hot air trying to warm up the car. In car temp sensor was dodgy too

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