Thread: Troubleshooting Summer Overheating

Sounds very frustrating to say the least!
With all the things you have replaced, it sounds like the only other thing would be the water pump.
Have you hooked up a faultmate or code reader? May be a faulty temp sensor sending wrong messages.
Is it losing any coolant?
Belt not slipping?

Additions:
- Water Pump replaced in last 6 months...
- Fuse Box Replaced in last 12-18 months
- Just replaced Oil Sump Gasket & Front Engine Cover/Oil Pump.

I've hooked it up to the Nanocom and no errors seem to be getting toggled at all. Doesn't seem to be losing any coolant... can't hear/see any belt slippage....

Check that you do not have a blockage in the refill tank pipe. The small hose that goes from the radiator to the refill tank can get blocked particularly where it connects inside the refill tank. Simple to check by disconnecting at radiator and blowing through. I had similar problem and found a build up in that small pipe was the culprit. Hope you get it sorted

Fan shrouds are sometimes counterproductive. I have trimmed 25mm of length off a shroud on a Ford F350 so the fan tips were more exposed. This improved the vehicles hot weather performance out of sight. Ideally fans should only be shrouded up to the front edge of the blades, as air is radially thrown off the blade tips given a chance. I have modified a number of different fan setups this way with good success.

I will be getting a P38 in tomorrow for work so can have a closer look at the fan then.

Also worth considering is a twin electric fan set off a later Falcon, they have been grafted to D1/RRC radiators so I believe.

I spent haps of time and effort on mine, and never really managed to get it to a heat tollerant level I was happy with.

I have two radiators, and when it was my daily drive they got swapped every 50K and rodded.

Water pumps, fans, ac fans , had it all done at a few different radiator/cooling shops, had electrics tested (did have dreaded resistive cables in hot enviroment issue at first), the only thing I never did was cut vents in the bonnet or sides to let more heat out like the later models.

Only ever happned when standing still in traffic for more than a few minutes, and always took at least 5 full minutes of rapid driving to get it back down to normal temp.

I don't know if the people fitting the bigger alloy radiators are having better luck?

After LPG was fitted by an excellent fitter, it did seem to run a noticeable bit longer before the temp guage would creep up.

I'm contemplating getting a couple of Davies Craig Hi Flow Fans to replace the Air Conditioning Condensor Fans... and then having a Controller to run them when required.

P.S: I checked that Little Top Hose from Radiator and it seems clear.

Originally Posted by BusinessConnected

Hello Everyone,

The other consequence of this is that when the car overheats, subsequent starting/restarting is very very difficult... Seems to be a victim of "Heat Soak" etc etc...

I'm getting so frustrated about this thing that I'm close to heading down to my Local Jeep Dealer and getting a 2012 Plated Grand Cherokee!!!....

Heath

These Rover V8's cope well with our heat stock standard if nothing is wrong with them and don't need extra fans or shroud alterations or anything else for normal use.

I'm wondering if the "difficult to restart when hot" issue is the result of coolant leaking past a head gasket and wetting a plug. When my 3.9 had a slight coolant leak on one bank I experienced hot restarting and overheating when stationary issues.

As for the 2012 GC......would be pretty hard to resist and at a great price I would expect. I did the same thing but ended up with a JKU Wrangler. Not many dollars[comparitively speaking] for a lot of car.

Just did a Nanocom Scan and I have a P0183 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High/Out of Range. From my research this will explain the hard starting issues...