Thread: Waterless coolant

I'd like to point out that your engine can still cook itself without boiling the coolant - if they BP of the coolant were high enough. Engines are designed to operate within a certain range. Don't quote me but I think it's 75 to 95C. Far outside that, and you're asking for at least reduced performance and excessive wear. I don't think this is the solution you're looking for.

From personal experience, the AC Delco OAT concentrate (the red stuff) for LSx V8 engines (Holden Dealer spare parts) diluted 50% with demineralised water is great stuff for Rover aluminium V8 engines.

Originally Posted by Craig_Keira

I'd like to point out that your engine can still cook itself without boiling the coolant - if they BP of the coolant were high enough. Engines are designed to operate within a certain range. Don't quote me but I think it's 75 to 95C. Far outside that, and you're asking for at least reduced performance and excessive wear. I don't think this is the solution you're looking for.

I appreciate that an engine can exceed max op temp without boiling with this stuff in it, what appealed to me was that there was no pressure build up because there's no water to boil, therefore not introducing other problems like blown heater matrix "O" rings or hose which could be more terminal and render the car immovable.
Having said that it was commented that glycol can weep out of the smallest hole, is this even though there is no pressure in the system?

Rob

Originally Posted by Robsrod 58

I appreciate that an engine can exceed max op temp without boiling with this stuff in it, what appealed to me was that there was no pressure build up because there's no water to boil, therefore not introducing other problems like blown heater matrix "O" rings or hose which could be more terminal and render the car immovable.
Having said that it was commented that glycol can weep out of the smallest hole, is this even though there is no pressure in the system?

Rob

Hi Rob, there will be pressure build up with this product the same as will be with any other fluid that expands when it heats. It isn't just steam that pushes coolant out of the cooling system when you remove the pressure cap, it also pressurises because of the expansion of the rubber hoses in the cooling system that takes place when the coolant expands. If you remove the pressure cap off the cooling system when it is fully heated you will still get coolant that is about or over 100 degrees Celsius spraying all over you if you aren't careful. You will burn just as much from coolant at 100 degrees Celsius as you will from a water and coolant mixture at 100 degrees Celsius. The only difference is that the “wonder coolant” has a higher boiling point than most other cooling system additives.

You mention that you're concerned about blowing matrix “o” rings. What happens with cooling system “o” rings is that they loose their elasticity (go hard and brittle) with time and are therefore unable to adjust themselves to expanding and contracting sealing surfaces in the same way they do when they are soft and supple. This is the cause of them leaking and happens slowly and over time and will not render the vehicle immovable.

With blown hoses – the best way to prevent that happening is to replace the old hoses with new ones – I think that you will find that buying a full set of new cooling system hoses from the UK and having them sent to you here in Australia will turn out to be cheaper than buying enough “wonder coolant” to fill the cooling system. When I replaced the hoses in the cooling system of my vehicle they cost around £70.00 delivered to my door in Australia. I ordered them on a Friday and they were delivered to me on the Monday.

Originally Posted by Hoges

From personal experience, the AC Delco OAT concentrate (the red stuff) for LSx V8 engines (Holden Dealer spare parts) diluted 50% with demineralised water is great stuff for Rover aluminium V8 engines.

And should be the exact same stuff as Land Rover OAT coolant (Texaco LongLife, Texaco supply GM and Rover with the coolant, GM call theirs Dexcool, CAT ELC is almost identical, with a small % of I think Nitrate added for wet liners )

Thanks for that p38oncoils,
In my very first post I indicated that I will be changing pretty much the whole cooling system soon, I already have hoses water, pump and thermostat ( courtesy UK ) radiator coming soon.
Its not that there has been a problem with the system, its just an unknown quantity and 10ys old and I want to minimise avenues of failure, as I also indicated a very big trip is on the horizon. This is what prompted the whole idea and thread, It appear to generated a good discussion though.

Rob

Well bugger it, I'm going to try it. If it's good enough for Jay Lenno, it's good enough for me. Evans Coolant is non-toxic and lasts a lifetime, it does not corrode like water. less pressure on a cooling system would be a good thing in my opinion (being and ex cat mechanic). I have an old bedford that gets used once in a blue moon and this product would suit that application fine.
I'm going to put it in the wifes disco first and see how it goes, i will report back on it.

Pressure in a cooling system is there for a reason, it helps prevent cavitation (at pump and around liners), it helps to purge air pockets and assists "scrubbing" of heat away from surfaces.
Low cooling pressure is not necessarily a good thing.