Thread: The P38 Rear Bar Tyre Carrier SNAFU

I had a look at getting one of the Tire Gate carriers a few months back but could not justify the $2k price tag once you get the carrier with a couple of options for carrying Jerry cans and number plate mount with light!
Gary

Steve. The bracket I made used 100m x 50mm box section welded to a plate which fixes with bolts to the side of the chasis rails. Two bolts (front of car) were into large rivnuts. The two rear ones picked up bolts on the end of the towbar cross member. I also welded plates top and bottom to pick up more existing tow bar bolts. The other end if the bix section was drilled at 40mm dia to accept the stub axle - which I reduced in length. Ill try to find some more pictures to show it. I'd never welded before this job so it was a great project to learn on. The MIGs make it relatively easy. The ugliness of my beads being tidied with a grinding flap. When driving the lock plate obviously takes a lot of the weight. It all seems pretty solid.

I also made an extra jerry can holder that sits on the rhs of the vehicle using the hitch. I used a hitch pin wedge to stop vibration. I believe the hitch wheel carrier discussed in this thread also has a wedge designed hitch bar which is tightened to stop vibration. There's fella in melbourne selling them - avenger 4x4 from memory.

Originally Posted by davidsonsm

Steve. The bracket I made used 100m x 50mm box section welded to a plate which fixes with bolts to the side of the chasis rails. Two bolts (front of car) were into large rivnuts. The two rear ones picked up bolts on the end of the towbar cross member. I also welded plates top and bottom to pick up more existing tow bar bolts. The other end if the bix section was drilled at 40mm dia to accept the stub axle - which I reduced in length. Ill try to find some more pictures to show it. I'd never welded before this job so it was a great project to learn on. The MIGs make it relatively easy. The ugliness of my beads being tidied with a grinding flap. When driving the lock plate obviously takes a lot of the weight. It all seems pretty solid.

I also made an extra jerry can holder that sits on the rhs of the vehicle using the hitch. I used a hitch pin wedge to stop vibration. I believe the hitch wheel carrier discussed in this thread also has a wedge designed hitch bar which is tightened to stop vibration. There's fella in melbourne selling them - avenger 4x4 from memory.

Hitchgate by wilco is what I was refering to as the product. Looks pretty ingenuous.

A couple more photos to illustrate what I was trying to describe.

Davidsonsm

Can you post a couple more pics please including how the stub axle comes through the rear bumper bar. I'm also looking at the rijidij swing away kit but still undecided how to mount it to the car. I currently have the rear bumper off and am toying with a piece of 12mm steel that I have in the shed bolted ( or welded) on top of the tow bar frame under the top of the bumper bar. I believe from preliminary measurements this should be able to sit out of sight inside the standard bumper bar. I would then have to weld the stub axle directly onto the plate and of course drill through the bumper to allow the stub axle to protrude.

Gary

Had to slot the bumper in line with the stub axle so the bumper would slide back on. I then glued a split piece of rubber around the stub axle to hide the slot in the bumper. Will take some close ups & post.

Hope this shows ok.

And another. To see it in daylight with axle cover removed, it'll be the weekend.