Thread: Rangie just stopped! Engine no go!

Just looking on Rave, it's fiddly but not hard. Access to the sensor is easy, as is the loom.

I have 235,000km on the clock. Not sure if my engine has been rebuilt before or not, but she runs VERY smooth and VERY quiet. Not an ounce of tappet noise - even after sitting for weeks on end! Just ask Paul!

If the engine is cold I rekon I could have the job done in 20mins.

Here is a few pics of the Crank Position Sensor on my Thor P38. Clean - thankfully, and not too hard to get at. The pipe headed up the back of the block is the loom pipe. Should be a quick job. Will move rangie back into the garage and remove the offender now ready for the new one on Monday.

So I pulled the old sensor out in preparation for the new one going in.

If you exclude my moment of idiocy getting the electrical connector off, it took all of 5mins.

The two bolts holding the heat shield for the sensor are 7mm and the two bolts holding the sensor itself are 8mm. The connector behind the LH head is misleading to look at - you would think to squash the first tab and pull, but you actually need to get a small screwdriver and lift the small tab towards the centre of the engine bay.

I guess it was a bit dark in there for me and I've been neglecting the carrots lately.

Replacement should only take 5mins - very easy job and can be done without the need for something to stand on. No swearing involved to remove the connector (once I actually found the correct tab). I used a normal 3/8 drive ratchet to remove the bolts, there is plenty of room to work and they were not very tight (6Nm).

See attached pics of the dying sensor. A bit more oil in the engine bay than I first thought!

Cheers
Keithy

FWIW, regarding fuel pumps. i had my commodore one die leaving me for a long wait for the tow truck at 11pm. gave no symptoms of pump and pointed to tps in its behavior. replaced tps ran fine for a week then died again. this time the pump diddnt make the RIGHT noise. replaced the pump been going for 12 months no probs. when we got the old one out we bench tested it and it flowed correct and pressurized properly, the only difference we could find between that and the new one was the old one pulled 9 more amps than the new, logic would state that it should have blown the fuse.

I fitted the new crank sensor yesterday, took the Rangie for an hour long peak hour run, gave a few falcons and commodores a bit of a scare and I'm happy to report that it didn't stop once.

I thought if it were anything fuel related then taking on mum's taxi with the son driving would surely show up any problems. None to report. Nice warm North Queensland arvo it was too.

Cheers
Keithy

Keithy

Ive got as new one on the shelf, but I've put off replacing it because it looks too hard. I can't even see the connection part.

Did you do it from up top or from underneath on a hoist?

Regards
Trev

I laid on my back on the ground! Rangie was in normal height with the battery disconnected.

To access the connector you will need to be going from the top. If you can touch the rear of the left head, you can reach the connector. It is not hard to un-clip.

I found it easy to do with one hand (the sensor). You could use two hands by reaching over from the front of the diff.

Easy job, could do it in my sleep, and this was the first time I've done the job.

Another follow-up (gotta love 'em), went out bush last weekend, a few hours drive from home - 350km round trip. Lots of low range and general slow driving with no issues.

Cheers
Keithy