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Thread: Lifted P38 on air - questions

  1. #91
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    I obtained my st stl braided extended lines from m-m4x4 out of the UK. I'd tried to get them thru many other outlets and m-m just seemed the best option. No doubt you could get them made up.

  2. #92
    RockJaw Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by davidsonsm View Post
    I obtained my st stl braided extended lines from m-m4x4 out of the UK. I'd tried to get them thru many other outlets and m-m just seemed the best option. No doubt you could get them made up.
    And I thought I was the only one buying from them!

  3. #93
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    Rather than play around with the ride height sensors when adding circa 2" of lift via the blocks, has anybody got any thoughts on the pros and cons of simply raising the lower arm attachment point (by circa 2") on the pan hard rods? That way, the geometry of the sensor arc doesn't change very much at all - or does it?

  4. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidsonsm View Post
    Rather than play around with the ride height sensors when adding circa 2" of lift via the blocks, has anybody got any thoughts on the pros and cons of simply raising the lower arm attachment point (by circa 2") on the pan hard rods? That way, the geometry of the sensor arc doesn't change very much at all - or does it?
    I considered moving the mount point up the control arm but it ain't an easy job by the looks of it. Some have even replaced the whole arm when they busted the rubber mount.

  5. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbrown View Post
    I'll upload the drawings once I'm back in oz in august. They are on my work laptop and need a little revising before releasing to the forum.

    But I can tell you that we made the hole diameter 37mm but the pin of the bags are actually 35mm diameter. The slack should sorta work in out favour once the final design is finished. Off memory the flat spot on the D for the hole was made to be 30mm (28mm on the bag). The rear spacers for mine had 32mm/12mm taper for the uprights (middle 22mm with 20mm difference between for and aft) , with the front a flat 22mm (total height 30mm when you add the two thicknesses of the top and bottom plates) . Keith's were 20mm higher all round. Diameter of top and bottom plates was 125mm.

    Hope that helps a little. Bit hard to describe in words.

    If you can wait a month or so I'm back in oz and Keith or myself have actually installed them, I/we will be happy to share.

    Does that mean the slope/angle of the rear spacers is only 9.2 degs or thereabouts?

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidsonsm View Post
    Does that mean the slope/angle of the rear spacers is only 9.2 degs or thereabouts?
    Just over 20mm between front and rear on the spacer just looked like a good compromise. Well I got under and lifted the car up and down and thought that looked good, then asked Keith and he had also thought that dimension.. So it stuck.

    With that height difference the bag will have the rubber fold back onto the front of the aluminium piston first when pushing the wheel right up in the guards or on the bump stops (piston leaning forwards) . At the highest height on the eas the bag and piston will be fairly straight.

    If the difference between front and rear was more, then even at highway height the bag will be on quite an angle with the aluminium piston leaning forwards. To make a spacer that made the piston and bag straight at full droop, then the lean forwards when pushing into the bump stops would be very high. I'm sure that would effect the ride with the angle on the piston.

    I guess there are people with +2 inch terrafirmas running no angle spacers, so thought it should be safe with just over 20mm more on the rear of the spacer and not have the piston leaning forwards too much at the lower ride heights.

  7. #97
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    Makes sense. Muchos gracias. Understand it's a compromise or happy medium. But reckon the more parallel the bag and piston at full extent, the better. Will do likewise myself - measures angles at full extension and compression. But no doubt will end up st similar angles/differences.

  8. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidsonsm View Post
    Makes sense. Muchos gracias. Understand it's a compromise or happy medium. But reckon the more parallel the bag and piston at full extent, the better. Will do likewise myself - measures angles at full extension and compression. But no doubt will end up st similar angles/differences.
    To be honest until I try it I won't be too sure.... So definitely curious of other people's thoughts.

    I'm back in Oz again and hopeful pick up the Lazer cut bits for the spacers... Got the rest sitting at home, including the shocks from the UK. But there's still a fair amount of work and the next few weekends ain't looking like great work weekends.

    I changed a few other buts on the car. The best being the EBD Greenstuff brake pads which feel way better than the previous pads which I think we're Bendix.. Maybe... Anyway going a little off topic.

  9. #99
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    For those that have already lifted their P38's circa 50mm, are there any implications with regards to the drive shafts and/or caster angles and/or crabbing?


    Cheers.

  10. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidsonsm View Post
    For those that have already lifted their P38's circa 50mm, are there any implications with regards to the drive shafts and/or caster angles and/or crabbing?


    Cheers.
    I have heard that some can experience some vibration but it appears to be a minority. And that's solved by a double cardan drive shaft.

    I know someone was looking at changing the pan hard bar to reduce the sideways movement at full articulation but haven't heard of anyone needing it for normal driving heights.

    I don't think anything but the vibration is of concern from my readings.

    Hopefully someone experienced can shed some light..

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