Thread: Timing Cover Gasket Replacement

Very feasable. Its honestly not that hard. You can leave the radiator in place, but you'll need to drop the sump.
You'll need hyloseal too.

Im wondering where it is leaking from though, if the timing cover gasket is leaking coolant it will end up in the sump.

Hi,

It seems to be seeping from the edge of the cover, our guess is the narrow part where it goes past the water gallery is leaking just a tiny amount.

Looking at the diagram from RAVE, see pic below, we think it seeping from the outside of the gallery in the pic just above the number 2


Regards
Steve

The lower bolt of that side water gallery goes through into the water jacket, so that could be the problem too.

I took the sump and front cover off mine last night, took 2.5 hours.
Make sure you do the bolts up with a torque wrench though, as over tightening the front cover bolts can distort the gasket and block the oil way into the block.

Thanks Mate.

Following the maxim of "Service it like a plane" i use a torque wrench everywhere.

And I intend to give the motor a good cleanup and check the tightness of all those bolts

Regards
Steve

So as far as I can tell, I think I need;

Sump Gasket LVF100400
timing cover gasket ERR7280
water pump gasket ERR4077
front oil seal ERR1632 / ERR6490

oil pickup tube o-ring; 19mm inside diameter, 1.5mm thick.

Oil pressure relief valve o-ring; 19mm inside diameter, 1.5mm thick.

Permatex Black RTV

Anyone see anything I missed?

Steve

The oil pickup oring is smaller than the pressure relief oring, ill post up the part number this arvo.

Youll also need hylomar gasket jointing stuff - stupid cheap auto has it.
Thread sealant for the bolt that goes through to the water jacket.
If your touching the oil pump you'll need loctite 222.
And antisieze.

Im a bit on the pedantic side with doing things right too - not to say I haven't made a few mistakes though...

Benji,

I have all of those sealants in my arsenal already, previous Rover ownership taught me that

I am thinking of fitting an oil pressure gauge so I can see if I may need to look at the oil pump when i pull the cover.

Steve

Lol, I'm building up a great collection of fluids, pastes, spare parts etc. too.

The pressure switch is 1/2" unf (actually uno). I used a 1/2" UNO to 1/2"BSPT, 1/2" - 1/2"BSPT 90º elbow, then a reducer to 1/8" BSPT. I tried for ages to find a1/2"uno pressure guage, but there's not much room there either hence the elbow.

Got mine back together today, hopefully it all goes good tomorrow.