Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 34

Thread: P38 coolant woes

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Karratha WA
    Posts
    100
    Total Downloaded
    0

    P38 coolant woes

    Hi all.

    I'd like some advice please on a V8 cooling issue, or rather a lack of. Recently I went on a short run of around 16k to the beach and on the return trip the car decided to get hot, not hot enough to boil it but close to the maximum line so obviously I stopped to let it cool and then made it the last few k's home. It has done this once before so I thought that prevention may be better than the cure and I replaced the thermostat. On the very next trip and the same journey it decided to try and overheat again almost in the same place as the previous trip so I allowed it to cool and drove home.
    Here's where the issue comes along, I topped up the coolant at engine cold and ran the car at tick over for a while and the car warmed up as you'd expect and reached normal temperature. In the process of doing this it decided to spit out rather a lot of coolant onto the driveway from the tank cap and began steaming from the cap. All the while the temp gauge read normal.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Townsville, QLD
    Posts
    2,581
    Total Downloaded
    0
    One of a few possible things in my eyes, but I'm no expert!

    Head gasket
    Expansion tank cap faulty
    Water pump
    Radiator blockage

    I had a similar thing happen to me when I first got mine, turned out to be a combination of water pump and radiator blockage.

    See what the other lads have to say, if it were me I'd start with the easy one and replace the expansion tank cap.

    Cheers
    Keithy

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Coogee, South of Fremantle, WA
    Posts
    1,550
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Keithy`s suggestions are all possible.
    I think you have two issues here the second one is refilling the lost coolant once its been lost. This is no as simple as topping it off. You need to get the front of the car as high as poss. Fill the tank to level, run the engine till the level starts to rise then stop the engine and leave for a few hours. Repeat until the level stays constant. Its a pain getting the air out and this is the only successful way I have found. Told to me by a Landy expert.
    1st issue is overheating to start with. If you are not loosing coolant in normal driving and temp is stable, oil clear, no bubbles in expansion tank I would suspect the Rad being partially blocked, a quite common problem. Now quite cheap on ebay around $$300 shipped and an easy job. You could try a flush. Make sure the small tube from the Expansion tank top to the rad is clear from any blockage, when the engine is running there is a steady slow flow through it. I would also extend the overflow pipe from the expansion tank so if it does overflow you wont expose your fusebox to a steam bath
    Once sorted get a low coolant alarm and if not changed get a new water pump and Rad. Much cheaper than a slipped liner

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Karratha WA
    Posts
    100
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks guys. That's great advice!
    I had previously suspected and ordered a new water pump and am awaiting its arrival and this will be my next job. I have also already changed the cap so I will check the other stuff while I'm in there and go through the process of elimination. Just as well that I don't need to drive it to work every day! I did happen to notice a lot of bubbles now that you have mentioned it coming into the expansion tank.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    hobart
    Posts
    161
    Total Downloaded
    0

    cooling

    Worth checking the two oil coolers in front of the radiator. When I had a problem I replaced thermostat, water pump, radiator, hoses cap and then found that the gearbox oil cooler was clogged almost solid which was blocking air flow to nearly a third of the radiator. After cleaning, I found it was leaking trans fluid which I fixed, and haven't had a problem since.

    John

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Poland (I kid you not)
    Posts
    376
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Radiators furr up. Mine did exactly ybe same, I fitted a new radiator and job done - no more.overheating

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Karratha WA
    Posts
    100
    Total Downloaded
    0
    It would seem that a new rad is the way to go.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Sydney/Balmain
    Posts
    735
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Mmm hate to say it, but, if you have constant bubbles when running you have a blown head gasket at best.........but most likely you have a slipped liner.
    If everything is in good order these vehicles dont "just boil" even in a hot climate.
    Have you just bought the RR?
    How many Ks?
    What is the general colour in the expansion tank? what was it like when you bought it? (is it all rusty looking?)

    These engines dont like to boil, the cooling system needs to be in tip top order.
    Replacing good quality coolant every 2 years is a must. I change my hoses every 5 years or so. If your water pump is 10 years old and 200,000k on it you will be surprised how stuffed it is when you change it (pretty easy job).

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Karratha WA
    Posts
    100
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I bought it about a year ago from Sydney and it has around 300,000k on it. The expansion tank is nice and clean and was when I got the car so no change there. I changed the hoses just last weekend along with the thermostat and carried out a rebuild on the valve block and compressor. I had just filled it with coolant so maybe it's something to do with that? I'm not ignoring your advice just hoping that it might just be something else and not the head gasket or liner. I'm still tempted to go via the process of elimination before having to carry out any major work.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Sydney/Balmain
    Posts
    735
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Very common fault with these engines unfortunately.
    With 300k on it you most likely dont have the original engine.....without some sort of over haul having been done on it at some stage.
    Diagnosing a liner slippage is very hard.
    Do you have any signs of weaping (coolant) between heads and block? its very hard to get a good look, but try. If so you might just be lucky and its a head gasket.
    I have heard of pretty good results with Irontight being used to sort this issue out.
    Radiator; it is possible to pop the top and bottom tanks off as they are only clipped, its risky doing a re assembly, I replace my radiator about 2 years ago as I had damaged the expansion tank inlet on the top drivers side. I pulled my radiator apart just out of interest it was 95% good only 1 tube was blocked and another 50%, I have had my RR for 13yrs and it well worn but well serviced 345,000k now a bit rattly from the engine but she pulls strong uses no oil or coolant at all between changes.

    Here is a very good company in the UK.
    Read the bottom of the page on liners etc.
    RPi Engineering - V8 Engines

    Good luck

Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!