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Thread: Traction control not working properly

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    Traction control not working properly

    Went for a drive with dad and my brothers today, good times.

    But on two occassions the traction control played up, by insisting the right wheel must be dragged along whilst it's locked up.

    Going into a deep set of ruts that had a really slippery surface the TC started clicking away, and after a couple of seconds it locked the right wheel, and wouldn't let it go until I come almost to a stop and the TC stopped activating.

    There's no ABS or TC light on the dash (no fault code), though I'll have a play tommorow with the nanocom.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Townsville, QLD
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    Could have a seized brake piston perhaps?

  3. #3
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    Thanks Kiethy, had a look at it yesterday but its not siezed, a squiz on the nanocom revieled no abs issues.

    I jacked up a front and back wheel and chocked the other side front with a brick and wouldn'treverse over the brick or spin the non-jacked wheel (on gravel).

    I'm thinking it may need new fluid...hopefully.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    Jack your front wheel up off the ground (on level ground) Hand brake off in neutral............can you turn the wheel by hand? with just a small amount of resistance all is well, if you cant turn it your viscous coupling is shot.

    As keithy says, seized calliper.
    Dodgy wheel sensor (but no Faults logged)
    Fault in brake booster valving.
    What year are you? Pre 99 mid year only has traction on the rear wheels.

  5. #5
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    Sorry, I should really put that on my profile, it's 96.

    I dont think its the caliper pins as they're moving freely and the pads are wearing the same.
    We flushed new fluid through the system and out of the right rear came a lot of black suspended solids, which leads me to think it may be the hose.

    A clogged up sensor ring is a possibility, though so is a kinked brake line too.

    It seems to start off allright then the sound of the valves gets lighter as the wheel locks up, leading me to think that it takes a little while for the pressure to get through to the caliper and when it does, the cycling time of the valves is to quick to release the caliper, which would mean the pressure difference on both sides of the valves are roughly the same.

    On the nanocom there's a section to de-manual individual valves. ..

    I don't think the vc would cause my proplem, but it's okay. Tested it just the other day.

    But thats all beside the point, cause with the right locked up it does the worlds best circle work, had it spinning on the right front with the steering wheel straight.

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