Spotlight wiring

**Pete38** · 11th October 2013, 10:20 AM

Originally Posted by mtb_gary

Kev

I hope you don't mind me interrupting the conversation, but I think your switch might be the problem. The fog light switch is what is referred to as a momentary switch. In basic terms it sends an on signal to the BECM when you push it once then another signal to the BECM to turn off when you push it for a second time. Essentially, using a fog light switch is not possible for the operation you are trying to achieve. The switch type you need is one such as the inhibitor switch (the one immediately to the left of your fog light switches) you switch it on and it stays on.

Whilst I have not done it, you should be able to remove your fog light switch from it's housing and replace it with the inhibitor switch if you want to use a more appropriate looking symbol for the switch.

Gary

Oh yeh Gary is right. Hadn't picked up you said it was an Actual foglight switch. I am using the height inhibit switch in mine. You could probably modify the switch by adding a circuit so the momentary switch latched the circuit until power is turned off but that's getting a little more complex.

**TheTree** · 11th October 2013, 11:17 AM

Originally Posted by mtb_gary

Kev

I hope you don't mind me interrupting the conversation, but I think your switch might be the problem. The fog light switch is what is referred to as a momentary switch. In basic terms it sends an on signal to the BECM when you push it once then another signal to the BECM to turn off when you push it for a second time. Essentially, using a fog light switch is not possible for the operation you are trying to achieve. The switch type you need is one such as the inhibitor switch (the one immediately to the left of your fog light switches) you switch it on and it stays on.

Whilst I have not done it, you should be able to remove your fog light switch from it's housing and replace it with the inhibitor switch if you want to use a more appropriate looking symbol for the switch.

Gary

Hi

Going round again here

If you read posts 6, 7 and 8 in this thread, you will see it was decided that this was not a momentary switch !

I wish I has one of the bastards in my hands, a quick check with a multimeter would soon tell

Steve

**drivesafe** · 11th October 2013, 11:27 AM

Hi folks and this has been an interesting read and here is just a suggestions relating to the type of relay to use.

If you use a diode protected relay, you MUST wire it correctly or you will not only stuff the diode but the relay will be useless as well.

For positive switched headlights, relay pin 85 goes to earth, and the high beam connects to relay pin 87 ( via a switch if required ).

BUT, there is no reason for using a diode protected relay in the first place.

These diode ( spike ) protected relays are designed to reduce EMF, by removing the spike.

There is nothing to be gained in the way of electronics protection if you use one of these relays just as you are not going to risk harming anything if you use a no spike suppressed relay, and most of the relays in vehicles today are not spike protected.

If you already have a relay, spike protected or not, just use it. All your electronics is already protected by built-in protection that is incorporated into every electronic device ever make.

KevinM · 11th October 2013, 12:46 PM

Hi All

Thanks for all the replies and it looks like that I need to get rid of the fog light switch and use an inhibitor switch. If I use the inhibitor switch, do I need a diode relay or just a normal relay.
The connections to the relay have me a little confused. I believe that the #4 post of this thread by WayneG with the wiring diagram shows 86 is the main beam feed and 85 goes to earth. If this is correct, I believe that I can not use the diode relay that I have because it shows the current flows from 85 to 86. I will need a normal relay.
Your opinions are appreciated.
Regards
Kev

**mtb_gary** · 11th October 2013, 02:23 PM

Originally Posted by SteveFarmer

Hi

Going round again here

If you read posts 6, 7 and 8 in this thread, you will see it was decided that this was not a momentary switch !

I wish I has one of the bastards in my hands, a quick check with a multimeter would soon tell

Steve

Steve

Some clarification (hopefully) courtesy of the RAVE manual

"CIRCUIT OPERATION

Front Fog lamps

With the ignition switch and side lamp or headlamp

switch on, a momentary operation of the front fog

lamp switch will activate the front fog lamps. A further

momentary operation of the fog lamp switch, or

switching off of the headlamps/side lamps or ignition,

will cause the front fog lamps to be extinguished.

N.B. The front fog lamps will always be inactive

when the ignition is turned on."

Gary

**mtb_gary** · 11th October 2013, 02:46 PM

Originally Posted by KevinM

Hi All

Thanks for all the replies and it looks like that I need to get rid of the fog light switch and use an inhibitor switch. If I use the inhibitor switch, do I need a diode relay or just a normal relay.
The connections to the relay have me a little confused. I believe that the #4 post of this thread by WayneG with the wiring diagram shows 86 is the main beam feed and 85 goes to earth. If this is correct, I believe that I can not use the diode relay that I have because it shows the current flows from 85 to 86. I will need a normal relay.
Your opinions are appreciated.
Regards
Kev

Kev

I found this diagram on line (I'm not going to claim it

) which will hopefully clarify the connections as well as guage of wire to use. As an electronics vendor "Drivesafe" may be able to verify this diagram.

Gary

**TheTree** · 11th October 2013, 03:08 PM

Originally Posted by mtb_gary

Kev

I found this diagram on line (I'm not going to claim it

) which will hopefully clarify the connections as well as guage of wire to use. As an electronics vendor "Drivesafe" may be able to verify this diagram.

Gary

Hi

That looks right to me and is the way I originally interpreted the connections and wrote them up.

The thing is the relay will work either way but will only be protected one way

Steve

**TheTree** · 11th October 2013, 03:13 PM

HI

The switch we arrived at was STC8889 - Auxiliary lighting switch, which may not be the same as the fog light switch which is listed as AMR3711.

So it seems there are two different switches

Looks like the ride inhibit switch with the fascia changed might be the easiest way to go.

Steve

**TheTree** · 11th October 2013, 03:22 PM

Hi

To clear up the orientation quesition standards state that 86 is (+) and 85 is earth (-) so it seems my original post was correct after all

It's on the first page of this doc

http://www.hella.com/ePaper/Elektrik...h/document.pdf

Steve

**drivesafe** · 11th October 2013, 04:55 PM

Hi Gary and that diagram is for negative switched headlights.

Correct me but I think the LR headlights are all positive switched and if so this diagram will do the job.

Hi Steve and there is no such thing as a relay wiring “standard”, the info you linked to is for HELLA relays and covers “DIODE” spike suppressing relays which are polarity sensitive.

You can also get “Capacitor/Resistor” which are not polarity sensitive.

And as covered above, the standard relays do not have any spike protection and are not polarity sensitive.

So if you are using a diode spike protected relay, use HELLA’s instructions, but for ordinary relays, you can wire the coil connects, pins 85 and 86, to work in either direction.

For POSITIVE SWITCHED HEADLIGHTS.

PLEASE NOT, the YELLOW wire connected to the switch in both diagrams, is an optional connection and is there to allow the driving lights to be operated without the need to turn the head lights on and to high beam.

Thread: Spotlight wiring

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