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Thread: A snorkel - kind a! Work in progress

  1. #1
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    A snorkel - kind a! Work in progress

    Did the internal ductwork over the weekend. Modified the air box using plastic welding to seal up the original hole. I then added a flanged PVC spigot using mechanical plus JB Weld. The ductwork is all 90mm. Probably could of got away with 75mm. The 90mm is tight.

    Next project is the external snorkel. At least I'm to the wing with the air inlet now. It's been elevated a good 300mm from original.
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  2. #2
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    Looks good. One good point about having the tube drop lower then the air box is that any fluid will collect here. The bad point about this is there are drains in the air box (or usually are) to drain thins away. Accumulated water may slosh into the air box en mass giving issues. Just a thought.

  3. #3
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    Hi

    Looking good mate, pity I don't have any room under my bonnet down that side

    Steve

  4. #4
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    Looks tight in there. Watching your progress with interest.

  5. #5
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    The flexibles off the a.c. pump were the main obstruction. Worked around them. Didn't fancy re-routing those.

    Yeah - been thinking of how to incorporate a drain. Blanked off the original one. Gonna put a new one with a manual valve in the air box - for checking water build up.

    Will have to include a straight hose connector with threaded boss at low point of flexible hose.

    Would love to use a non-return valve on end of clear hose for strain outlet. Can I trust a non-return valve?

  6. #6
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    Will paint it all black. Prep work involved moving the charcoal canister, eas dryer, and removed cruise control. Also had to re-route the eas bypass nylon hoses. Plus the cabling to the eas box. Also had to move the air box 5mm plus towards the wing.

    Now for the hard part. Plastic welding two snorkel together. Maybe involving some fibreglass work too.

  7. #7
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    I'd trust one. You're not dealing with pressures or flows. It's actually a pretty static thing. A manual valve would be fine as long as you had a planned schedule for doing it.

  8. #8
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    Hey Shaun looking good mate.
    DAVE & I were looking at similar setup only yesterday and we feel it can be done with 75mm meaning virtually no rerouting or moving of anything under bonnet even cruise could stay and exiting from same location on gaurd. My thoughts on water trap was to wire in a windscreen washer pump connected to lowest point in airbox. This could be switched on prior to water crossing, acting like bilge pump, you could even terminate it with an outlet in front of windscreen on drivers side to monitor if anything is pumped out!
    That only leaves fabrication of snorkel along a pillar and small bend into gaurd!
    Any comments appreciated.

  9. #9
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    Heat shields mate! It gets pretty warm just above the exhaust manifold on the LH side near where your ducting runs.
    Love your work and understand it is a prototype. Once you've got the paths sussed out, I'd be seriously considering replacing the plastic duct with stainless steel pipe and rubber truck bends.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  10. #10
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    Guys. Really appreciate the comments. Five heads are better than one.

    I've used 2 ply silicone hose. Thought that would be heat resistant enough. It it's a concern though. Not an ideal routing. But worried that a heat shield would only deflect the heat to another area of the engine bay.

    And PVC has good heat resistance properties. Do not too worried about that at present. It gets a good draught from the fan.

    There are always improvements with any DIY job. Got to bath test it yet. The pvc spigot inside the box needed to be 2mm or 3mm lower as it fouls the air filter slightly. Doh. Another reason to use 75mm duct. Otherwise once painted - I'll be chuffed.

    The bilge pump idea has me thinking. Will probably just go with a manual drain valve for now and check it regularly - at least till I know how it behaves. The problem is getting a fitting that sits flush with the floor of the air box, plus having room for the outlet below the air box. Might need to go straight down through the existing hole in the wing.

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