Reply With QuoteWell done mate, glad to hear you have it sorted at last
Master
Having stripped it out for the 3rd time and it now working as it should, I thought I would share what I have learnt:
Mark cap heads to each valve
Glue in the black stopper atop each piston
When disassembled, blow out block with compressed air
Clean all valves with denatured alcohol
Lightly grease new rubbers on fitting
Check and double check all is in place before tightening down
Use double o rings in the collets, seat them gently using a chopstick
Put caps back in order (unless you want a fairground ride style suspension)
In preparation:
Use Paul P38's excellent diagram
Limit beer intake the night before
Absolutely no beer whilst "on the job"
Brush up on your swear words
Having the suspension back has been worth the anguish. One last piece of advice: don't let the wife spill coffee on the switch pack when asking her to hit the suspension height button during testing- something else to now replace!
ChatterBox
Well done mate, glad to hear you have it sorted at last
AT REST
Good work mate! They can be fun to work on sometimes! Have fun with the switch pack!
Keithy
ChatterBox
Hi MateOriginally Posted by poleonpom
Where did you get those black stoppers if I may ask?
Steve
Master
I didn't, they were the originals as none were supplied in the rebuild pack.
When the suspension didn't work after the first rebuild I stripped it down to find that the black stops on top of some of the pistons had dislodged resulting in the pistons not being able to open.
They must have come loose during the rebuild and were only held in place by surface tension. Obviously now not enough to keep them in place I superglued the buggers.
This was the only real issue I had, the other was a slightly twisted O ring on the piston guide tube that the piston moves up and down in.
ForumSage
I didn't, they were the originals as none were supplied in the rebuild pack.
When the suspension didn't work after the first rebuild I stripped it down to find that the black stops on top of some of the pistons had dislodged resulting in the pistons not being able to open.
They must have come loose during the rebuild and were only held in place by surface tension. Obviously now not enough to keep them in place I superglued the buggers.
This was the only real issue I had, the other was a slightly twisted O ring on the piston guide tube that the piston moves up and down in.
Done that too, on my Classic.
- And check/re-check with foam or whatever, all the joiners and fittings. Even new ones can sometimes leak a bit...
- Make sure the air filter has'nt started to disintergrate, another nasty cause of pump taking too long to build up pressure...
YarnMaster
SubscriberExamine the black stopper for circular indents which may cause leaks. If they are damaged, simply invert them and glue them in place. Alternatively, very gently grind them flat with 400 wet and dry using PLENTY of water...
MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)
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