A few years ago now I was in jaycar, and they were able to get the superceded ones in bus of three. They were from the US, and not that expensive.
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A few years ago now I was in jaycar, and they were able to get the superceded ones in bus of three. They were from the US, and not that expensive.
Cheers benji. Yeah I'll definately give jaycar a try once I've removed the becm. I'll give digikey.com a try also once I've found the offending culprit.
Seems odd that it's the left hand dipped main beam, but right hand full beam. They enter the becm through different connectors. But must share a common failure point? Strange.
Hi,
There is a massive thread on those MOSFET's here
BECM Mosfets
I just found a site which says they have stock of both and they ship to OZ !
BUK203-50Y and BUK202-50Y
Just need to make sure the package is the same, ie. SMD style
LittleDiode - Electronic Components Supplier
Regards
Steve
I had the dual H4 HID bulbs for a while and also a set of H7 HID bulbs in the aux driving lights but I recently took them all out.
The moving magnet on the H4 bulbs would occasionally stick between hi and lo positions which meant glare for oncoming drivers an be having to stop and get out to 'hit' the lights to get the magnet to move fully.
Also, I had enough of losing all of the dash lights for a second or so when switching to main beam, I didn't think that this was good for the BECM, the slow start of the HID bulbs also makes them less than ideal.
These days I have a dual LED H4 bulb (two single Cree LEDs) that puts out more light than standard bulbs and have a really good cutoff pattern and I've put standard filament bulbs back into the aux lights, the BECM is now perfectly happy with all of the bulbs. I have also put a 40" LED light bar with 80 3W LEDs across the front for those extra dark nights, amazing light spread but not great for distance but it was the cheapest I could find at about $480.
Yes - reckon I'll be removing the HID's. Go back to Halogen's. Although the LED headlight bulbs have caught my eye. Good to hear positive results with them.
I've acquired a couple spare MosFets of each type - can't hurt to have them as spares. I'll also try and get a spare BeCM for parts.
I'll have a delve next weekend and see if there's anything obviously wrong.
As stated, I reckon the HID's have caused this issue. They'll be coming out.
The LED's you speak of, are they the 25w twin Cree LED jobbies that I'm seeing over eBay? About 1800 lumens?
Have you a pic?
Were they simply plug n play or is there more involved?
Cheers
Keithy
The BECM MOSFETS are just soldered in - but are soldered top and bottom on the boards. I've read the easiest way to get them out after unclipping the heatsink is to chop the leads, and then you can de-solder each leg individually.
The replacement part numbers are:
BTS410-E2 (which replaces the BUK203-50Y) and
BTS432-E2 (which replaces the BUK202-50Y)
The headlights are run off the higher current BUK202-50Y/BTS432 MOSFETs
I think you can still purchase the BTS410 and BTS432 varients. I also have a diagram somewhere I made of all the BECM MOSFETs and what they drive...
Hope this helps,
Marty
Just as an aside - you DON'T want the SMD MOSFETS - you want ones in a TO-220 (5 pin) configuration. Sometimes also listed as SOT263
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1390872873
I would also be interested in seeing what the LED headlights look like - I've been considering getting a set of H3 ones for my fog lights as a test, before giving the dual chip ones a go in the H4 form for the low/high beam...
Marty - if you could help me identify which part of the board to inspect first with regards to the headlights - I'd be most chuffed.
Thanks in anticipation. Top bloke. best Regards - Sean.
Quote:
Originally Posted by marty_nz