Thread: Wonky operating headlights. Bizzare and strange.

Here is the Layout I've traced the MOSFETS to for various outputs.

There are still a few that I haven't traced the outputs to, as I was mainly interested in the ones for all the lights.

I've listed these with the BTS part numbers, as that what's on all 3 of the BECM's I have kicking about here...

Orientation is looking from the 'Bottom' of the BECM - with the Slate (Grey) and Yellow plugs facing towards you (would be the front of BECM when in the vehicle) and the Fuse Box to your left.
Hope this helps...

Marty

Originally Posted by Keithy P38

The LED's you speak of, are they the 25w twin Cree LED jobbies that I'm seeing over eBay? About 1800 lumens?

Have you a pic?

Were they simply plug n play or is there more involved?

Cheers
Keithy

Yes, those are the ones, mine were $112 back in November but I think they can be found even cheaper now.

Light output is 'softer' with a very even pattern and good cut-off, although not as bright they have the 5000K colour temperature of HIDs but with instant startup and the high beam adds the second LED for the full 50W output per side.

Simple plug and play to fit and no BECM errors, they do have a cooling fan on the back which doesn't work well with the rubber dust protector that normally goes on the back of the headlamp assembly so that may be an issue if you play in the mud a lot.


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal...item1c348bfc66

[That's awesome. First documentation of its type that I've seen. Many thanks for sharing.

I now understand why the LHS outboard dipped beam and the RHS outboard main beam can fail independently - becaue they are independently controlled.


QUOTE=marty_nz;2075418]Here is the Layout I've traced the MOSFETS to for various outputs.

There are still a few that I haven't traced the outputs to, as I was mainly interested in the ones for all the lights.

I've listed these with the BTS part numbers, as that what's on all 3 of the BECM's I have kicking about here...

Orientation is looking from the 'Bottom' of the BECM - with the Slate (Grey) and Yellow plugs facing towards you (would be the front of BECM when in the vehicle) and the Fuse Box to your left.
Hope this helps...

Marty[/QUOTE]

Yeah, All of the lamps are controlled by their own MOSFET. The MOSFETS have built in load sensing - which then gets passed on to the logic board via another chip (think it digitises the analogue signal from the MOSFET) and that is in turn how the BECM generates it's BULB FAILURE messages.

@RC42 - I gather from what you've said, that the LED units aren't as bright as the HID's - which is understandable, but how do they compare to the standard Halogen version? are they brighter than those?

Swapped out the upper power board on my BeCM today. Highline for highline although the part numbers printed on the fuse block housing were different.

All seems ok. But I'm too nervous to turn on my headlights in case I blow another mosfet. Ill solder new mosfets in to my original board and keep it as a spare.

Ill get some LED headlights instead of the HIDs to help prevent a repeat.

The other benefit of taking your front seat out, is it makes you rich. $1.55 in coins. Plus a beer bottle top, a chewing gum pellet and lots of otjer detritus - crisps mainly.

Might see what the passenger has been eating this last 15 years.

So I put some new LED headlights in tbe car today after swapping out the BeCM power board a couple of weeks back.

I still have the same headlight problem. It would be too much of a coincidence if the spare power board had the exact same blown mosfets.

Ill double check what voltage is coming out the BeCM.

But could this point to an earthing issue?

Also my right front indicators have also stopped working. This is getting rather frustrating. I checked the green and white wire on connector C113 - position 4. There doesn't seem to be any power coming out the BeCM.

Could a problem on the logic board cause this issue if the mosfets were good?

HI

This could be an earthing issue or a logic board fault.

Have you tried measuring the voltage across the bulb connectors?

Steve