Potential purchase - detailed questions

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Originally Posted by rc42

Out of curiosity, what was the single $6000 bill for? I'm hoping its not something that's likely to fail on my P38.

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I was just a lot of little things.

It involved the new BeCM and a lot of rewiring of the rear half. Apparently some tailgate wiring shorted without breaking the fuse, which melted a lot of wiring in the rear of the vehicle (and is probably what did in the BeCM as well). Almost the entire rear half was rewired, plus they replaced the interior mirror, some switches, a leaky hose clamp, belt, wipers, CC vacuum hoses (which I just redid, they didn't last long!), new tie rods and track rod, removed plenum assembly and replace filter assembly, replaced both HeVAC intake filters, some new trim, a new interior lamp, wheel balance and front & rear alignment.

I think that was about it. :rolleyes:

Wow! That quite a lot of work; and money.

Although its got a few issues it's had work done by the right people ; I think you're onto a winner.

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Hi

I wonder how they did the rear alignment, since the only thing you can adjust on a P38 is the Front toe in !

Great value for all that work :D

Steve

Sounds good!

Don't ignore the passenger door latch, especially if it opens and closes by itself ...

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Originally Posted by SpiggyTopes

Don't ignore the passenger door latch, especially if it opens and closes by itself ...

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At the risk of making myself sound like a fool (if you're just joking - can't tell :p), I don't mean the door itself is opening and closing. I mean it thinks the door is open. The latch just needs a new microswitch. The problem seems to be lessening with use, and seems to happen mostly when driving up bumpy bush tracks.


Just an update while I'm at it, I pulled out my HeVAC head and found one of the plugs was a corroded mess (not sure what from - the heater o-rings can't drip onto that spot and I don't know what else it could've been).

I dismantled it and cleaned it up (couldn't spot any damaged components or traces) but it stills turns off as soon as the engine starts. I even played around with the blend door selection, fan speed and Auto functions and everything is working fine - until I start the engine. The only thing I noticed that wasn't right was that the external temp was reporting as 18 degrees (which it most certainly wasn't unfortunately).

Any more tips on the HeVAC? I'm yet to chase inputs, but it really seems to be a fault with the head itself. There is no 'book' fault symbol either (it does work as the symbol comes on if I pull a fan relay). I doubt it's a grounding issue as it works fine with the engine off.

Have you got RAVE?
I'd be testing all the power feeds to make sure they are the right polarity at the right times.

If that checks out you may be up for a new unit.

Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

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Originally Posted by benji

Have you got RAVE?
I'd be testing all the power feeds to make sure they are the right polarity at the right times.

If that checks out you may be up for a new unit.

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I have bits and pieces of it in PDF form and some other workshop manuals. Nothing that has the HeVAC wiring diagrams though.

I will start with the power and inputs when I next tackle it, but it got a bit too warm in the garage today for my liking so it'll have to wait for another day (I'd sure like to have the A/C though!).

I'm going away for a few days, but when I get back I might make a dedicated thread about the HeVAC; this one's not really relevant anymore is it? ;)

Hi

Deoxit, though not cheap, is the bees knees for cleaning up those connections :p

Steve