Thread: Potential purchase - detailed questions

G'day mate and welcome!

I can't fully comment on a few things as I'm not a mechanic (so that rules out your power loss and hevac questions), however I can provide some insight into a few of the others!

The becm has obviously been replaced and old mate may have had a gutful of getting locked out so he has most likely had the immobiliser disabled (hence the key with no buttons). This may be a good thing if your Rangie will be garaged at night. Others have had a few issues sorting these problems on early p38's.

The dent in the upper tailgate appears to have been struck or possibly attempted to be closed with something hanging out the other side (repeatedly). I'd say its been a dodgy repair and painted. Not sure how hard the repair is for this.

The handle on the upper tailgate is no biggie - mine is cracked slightly too and I dare say it is just due to the amazing weight/force of the upper tailgate when you close it. No biggie!

The repair to the bumper should be cheap and I'd assume a panel shop can do this for you.

The air suspension issue sounds like a slow compressor. Could be simple, could be complex! Short of a full inspection it is hard to say. If it is the compressor you are in a good position.

If I was to make an offer based on what you've mentioned, it'd be around $7500 to $8000. If old mate has accepted an offer considerably lower than this I'd suggest there may be more wrong! Check the cooling system over thoroughly before you shake hands... Maybe a head gasket is on the way out...

Hope this helps mate!

Cheers
Keithy

Regarding the key fob, give lr a ring to find out what the go is. In the US lr are still supplying key fobs to p38s, I assume itd be the same in oz. You don't have to have a key on the Australian models though. There's no eka on that one.

The door locks are able to be pulled apart quite easily- but, I dont know if the micro switches are available, they do look like a generic Jaycar part though. Either way, door locks are available on fleabay - and no programming for the passenger side obviously.

The lockset number from the the door barrel / keyfob / ignition barrel can be programmed into the becm.

The hevac I haven't the foggiest - but it doesn't sound like a normal fault.

With the engine on will the fan speef go up and down?

Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

Thanks Keithy and Benji, I really appreciate your thoughts.

Originally Posted by Keithy P38

The dent in the upper tailgate appears to have been struck or possibly attempted to be closed with something hanging out the other side (repeatedly). I'd say its been a dodgy repair and painted. Not sure how hard the repair is for this.

The latch for the lower tailgate on that side is loose (one of the bolts is missing), and I noticed it looks like it's been moving back and forth a little as it's been driven so I'm assuming that may have something to do with it. There really isn't any evidence of paint work, so I'm hesitant to think it's been hit there...

Originally Posted by benji

Regarding the key fob

I had this same issue with another one I looked at earlier in the year (it had a grey non-remote key, but unlike this one it had it's original BeCM), and LR said a new key would be no problem. The replacement is 'only' $380, just bring rego papers and photo ID.

My concern is that the BeCM hasn't been programmed with the original codes so a new key from the dealer won't do a thing. I really don't care about having an immobiliser, I just want to not worry about being locked out due to worn micro-switches in the door lock (I read that's an issue if you only use the key).

Originally Posted by benji

The door locks are able to be pulled apart quite easily.

Ahh, goodo. So the switch is in the latch itself in the door? If it's a typical microswitch then yes, Jaycar it is. Thanks.

Originally Posted by benji

The hevac ... With the engine on will the fan speed go up and down?

At that stage I thought I probably wouldn't buy it as he seemed firm on the price, so I didn't play with it as much as I could've.

What I noticed is that if I quickly hit the starter and left the key in the ignition (but not enough to start it) it came on and stayed on. I could adjust the fan speed and switch the blend doors, but as soon as I turned the key and and actually started the engine the screen turned off. The fans kept running but I stupidly didn't think to try changing them.

The owner said he just presses auto then presses the blue or red arrows to change the fan speed (he really didn't seem to have much idea of how it worked), so I'd say it can be changed when the screen's off.

It flashes on for a half-second when you start the engine normally.

Personally, I'd walk away. If the stuff you see makes you nervous, without solid history, it could be the tip of the iceberg. That's the way these cars are. You'll end up fixing everybody elses neglect. Once fixed, or maintained in the first place - brilliant. But I reckon there are enough red flags raised, where a better deal could be found.

Originally Posted by davidsonsm

...

Yes, you could be right.

I don't mind working on it (in fact I've never let a mechanic touch one of my cars ever. Well, apart from registration checks...), but I need it to be reliable for at least six months (preferably more of course) without needing work requiring it to be taken off the road.

I'm coming from a Leyland-era Jag and 90's BMWs, so I can assure you I know the fun of British electrics and the pleasantries of semi-experimental electro-mechanical gizmos of the 90's. My family's had Land Rovers of all types without problems (just not the P38a) so I guess they've just been lucky!

I also want to be sure that if it turns out to not be right for me that it's not going to cost much more than I can sell it for later in the year. I'm not a dishonest person, so I'd feel obliged to fix things before selling it hence my discomfort. I think I'd get that with any P38 really (it's what's made me turn down a few P38s in the past that I regret).

I think I might buy this one, so far it seems the issues can be addressed without major cost (I have a fair bit of free time over the next month & half to work on it a little, so labour's no issue):

• HeVAC - System operational just an issue with the display in the head
  
  • New head should fix that - The head has no programming, it's all in the BeCM right? (unless that's my problem)
  
  
• No remote key - It seems that when a BeCM is installed the security and equipment codes are cloned into the new one
  
  • So theoretically if I want a remote key in the future I should be able to just order one from the dealer. Worst case scenario buy a complete module and lock set on the cheap from the UK. I will have a Hawkeye V5 soon, can that help me with this?
  
  
• Engine down on power under heavy throttle and high revs (say... flooring it up a hill) - Catalytic converters
  
  • This is actually the first one I've looked at that didn't have the original cats, they look like those cheap $85 Magnaflow jobs that give you a few years max out of them. They look old and rusted so I'm hoping they're just a little choked up.
  
  
• Top tailgate's bottom edge twisted in on one corner - should just twist back (albeit with some hassle) and replace missing screw in latch in the lower gate on that side
  
  • Failing that I presume a second-hand one wouldn't cost very much. I doubt it's a fast mover from wreckers seeing as its the lower half that has issues (am I wrong? I know that's the case with the classics)
  
  
• Slow air suspension - Considering the low price of the reseal kits I'd be silly to not do that
  
  • Hopefully new seals in the compressor and valve block will eliminate the slow lifting.
  • For my purposes I'm planning a larger compressor and tank in the future so that just leaves the valve block. Can these wear beyond repair at 225000 km?
  • If a new valve block is needed I might just install a MARS kit to bypass it until I feel like lightening the wallet. Definitely not going to run coils.
  
  
• Passenger door switch - Remove door latch, disassemble, replace microswitch
  
  • Worst case scenario appears to be $200 for a brand new assembly, I'm sure a second-hand one would be available somewhere. Scratch that, I just found one in the UK for $45. I'd be more likely to fix it though.
  
  

Does anyone see a problem with the above or can anyone add something I've missed?

I stupidly forgot to check the most obvious first thing of leaky heater o-rings, I'll do that before I buy it (I've got a small list of things I forgot actually, but only little things that won't really change my mind). That said, even if they're leaking if it's not a bad leak yet I'll probably still buy it since it's a dirt cheap, time-consuming job. It'd help me get acquainted with the old girl.

EDIT: Something I do like is the $8000+ worth of receipts over the last few years, including a couple from a LR dealer and several (the biggest, including one for over $6000) from a LR specialist. Surely someone wouldn't be foolish enough to spend that much money on something that belongs in a scrap heap? Is that wishful thinking?

Keep looking there are better ones out there for that money , dont rush into buying . Test drive a lot as they all perform different depending how the were looked after . You will soon sort out the good from the abused , good luck.

Can't help thinking he's asking top dollar for the issues it has.

Just reading between the lines I'd walk away from this one. I'm sure there are better ones out there for your money. Sounds like he may be a bit desperate to sell / Why. If its so good & he's spend so much money on it why sell. It also sounds like a lot of "little" issues have been let go. So what is he not telling you.

There has been a couple of P38's in the market section . Have a look. When you find the right one you will not have any questions & you will know.

Walk way / Far to many Questions

Gary