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Thread: Transmission removal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    Transmission removal

    Hi all.

    Well as you all know I've had an interesting 4 days last week with the failure of the crank sensor along with the possible Brocken flex plate and dislodged flywheel.

    I have made the decision to have crack at removing the transmission to see if I can fix this. I have studied up on the removal process via the workshop manual, but now I'm asking for your help and any usefull advice that I can get in successfully removing the tranny to replace the flex plate and possibly the flywheel.

    I don't mind a challenge, but at the same time I don't want to tear my hair out doing it wrong, so any help would be appreciated. Hopefully it won't be too hard!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    All I can say is good luck mate!

    The only way in my eyes is engine out. I'd be doing any and all gaskets and seals along with the head gaskets, the crank sensor, coil packs and welch plugs at the same time the engine is out. Plus a good degrease of the engine.

    Keep us posted mate!

  3. #3
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    Jan 2012
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    Dad was saying yesterday he's getting the clutch done on his d1 and they're dropping the trans out; but unless he had a hoist and transmission jack he'd be taking the engine out as it's much more managable, especially aligning it back in.

    If the motor is solid I'd tend to leave the head gaskets, but thats just me; however you've got a chance to get at the rear main seal.

    I haven't done that before though so can't really give you any words of wisdom.

    Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    Alright. Having never removed a V8 from a P38, what's the challenge in this instance?? I know it's not the same as a VW Bettle boxer 4 which is out in like 45 mins, but what tricks or tips are involved with this one??

    BTW the way, my farther is going to have a heart attack when he finds out what I'm about to embark on, LOL. He's a German through and through, and not a fan of British products I. e " Don't mention ze war "

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Crafers West South Australia
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    My suggestion is to tackle it the way I get Classic engines out, remove the entire inlet and exhaust manifolds. That way you have a fighting chance of undoing everything you need to get at for removal. Inlet gaskets are common leakers in any case.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Make sure you have a copy of RAVE...

    Plus:
    * endless supply of clip lock sandwich bags of various sizes,
    * a couple of pens and a set of 5x3 index cards from the newsagent or Officeworks etc.

    Read RAVE for the LR recommended sealants etc. e.g. Loctite 518 (red stuff) smeared on cling-wrap thin, is very good for sealing aluminium surfaces with gaskets... inlet manifold especially.

    Do a LOT of reading. IIRC there's do's and don'ts about removing the auto trans. and or the torque converter etc. Read RAVE carefully

    Get hold of the special LR tool to remove the UJ nuts from the flange. It can save you a heap of time and aggro.

    There is a mix of AF and metric nuts/bolts in unlikely places. You'll need spanners/sockets for both and remember to mark on the 5x3 card what goes where

    The idea is to remove a part, set of nuts etc, clean them up, bag and tag with info written on the index card, like which nuts go where, order of wiring, a sketch of which way stuff sits etc.

    Also take plenty of photos etc especially of how various hoses, wiring etc currently sit in the engine bay. The orientation of hose clips also important.

    Photograph the cooling hoses and how they currently sit.

    Take the bits apart in sections and try to store them in a carton for each "system". So, coils, spark plugs, leads etc bagged, tagged and all in a box together. Same with the inlet manifold... you get my drift.

    The order of removal and replacement can be important because of space /access... you don't want to be having to pull stuff off becaue something else has to go right "THERE" ...especially if it involves removing gaskets already lovingly cemented in place etc... don't ask!

    Good luck with it.. take your time and ask a lot of questions!
    cheers

    Bit of a bugger you don't have the Thor engine, then you could honestly tell your Dad it's just a BMW in Saville Row suit
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
    2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
    2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)

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