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Thread: Coils back to Air Springs what needs doing

  1. #21
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    Speaking of valve blocks has any one had any success in resurfacing the valves them selves to produce a more of a point contact to the alloy surface, and hopefully a more leak resistant seal?

    Rob

  2. #22
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    If i recall... someone tried 2000 grade wet&dry. Or finer if you can get it... Are they really that bad ?

  3. #23
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    I think that the pointy bit is not designed to seal, just hold the small O ring behind it which provides the seal. Correct me if I am wrong.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by wayneg View Post
    I think that the pointy bit is not designed to seal, just hold the small O ring behind it which provides the seal. Correct me if I am wrong.
    I probably didn't explain properly, by point seal I mean, the smallest possible contact point, therefore extracting the greatest possible pressure/square inch on the point of seal eer, does that sound any better?

    Rob

  5. #25
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    Which pointy bit are you guys referring to? rob - the valves seal against the plastic valve body - not the alloy. So hence my question.

  6. #26
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    I presumed these............


  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by wayneg View Post
    I presumed these............

    Ah, now I see the confusion, not the NRV's, the control valves for the air springs and compressor control.

    The NRV's are as you say O ring contact and completely servicable

  8. #28
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    I think I know what you are getting at. From memory the inner valves have a rubber or similar centre section. This gets a circular indent. I suppose if a few thou could be taken off the end we would be back to a new flat surface,

    This picture blatantly stolen from PaulP38a shows the valve. the screwdriver is pointing to the end which gets the indent


  9. #29
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    Yes, that's the end that can need attention.

    Be very very careful of that O ring being pointed at... the tiniest roll or distortion when re-assembling will give you a really annoying slow leak....

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by wayneg View Post
    I think I know what you are getting at. From memory the inner valves have a rubber or similar centre section. This gets a circular indent. I suppose if a few thou could be taken off the end we would be back to a new flat surface,

    This picture blatantly stolen from PaulP38a shows the valve. the screwdriver is pointing to the end which gets the indent

    Yep, a dab of superglue to hold the black rubber in place, then put the shaft in a drill press, turn on drill (200 rpm) and very gently lower onto previously water soaked 2000 wet and dry and keep lubricated with plenty of water. Doesn't take much to remove the circular indente. Let it dry and reassemble.
    The trick is to maintain the flat surface, hence the 2000 w&d and drill press.
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
    2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
    2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)

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