Thread: P38 air suspension

Simplest way I can think of is fit a set of these.......


Blow them up and see if the car drops significantly on any corner. Soapy water is also a good idea at connections.
My money is on the solenoid plunger rubber ends leaking because of the indent developed with age. There has been a thread in the last few weeks about this. I have since sanded the rubbers on one of my cars and it has sat four square for two weeks after the work.
Did you change the exhaust diaphragm in the valve block

HI,

You could also pull the EAS timer relay which is under the passengers seat when you park it and see if it still goes down

There is also this stick at rr.net

EAS Troubleshooting Tips

Regards
Steve

Have pulled out timer but still slow leak.
Next step is to put valves back on and see if I can isolate it wayneg as you suggested. I have reconditioned the valve block with all new rubbers and the green switch.
Should I def be able to detect a leak with soapy water in the valve block area.
Ie pipe inlets...

Other prob I have had before removing fuse to eas was the battery going flat but I think that was because the pump was trying to keep the height ? Oh and alternator fault.

Might just put coils on her....

Keith, is it sinking one corner only, front first or all four uniformly? That should help to pinpoint your issue.

Did you notice the condition of the NRV's during the rebuild.

Originally Posted by keith5

Might just put coils on her....

Hi

I am sorry buy foul language is not permitted in this forum

Steve

Originally Posted by keith5

Have pulled out timer but still slow leak.
Next step is to put valves back on and see if I can isolate it wayneg as you suggested. I have reconditioned the valve block with all new rubbers and the green switch.
Should I def be able to detect a leak with soapy water in the valve block area.
Ie pipe inlets...

Other prob I have had before removing fuse to eas was the battery going flat but I think that was because the pump was trying to keep the height ? Oh and alternator fault.

Might just put coils on her....

HI

If you have a bypass kit with a pressure gauge you can see exactly what is going on. You can isolate the sections to find the leak

The pump will not run with the ignition off, it sounds like you have an electrical issue as well

Another rr.net sticky gives you a good start down this road.

Sticky: Electrical Troubleshooting Updated 2010

You can purchase just the regulator for a reasonable price

Good luck
Steve

Sorry Steve ...lol it is just frustrating....
Hmmm might invest in a bypass kit then..
Who sells the best?
Sinks in the back right hand first I think .....Dave....
Valve block looked good.
I have disconnected the pipes and put valves on them so will
See how she sits in the morning.....
Did notice they were a bit rough at the ends so maybe this is the problem?

If the pipes are a "bit rough" then they probably need to be trimmed.
Trim about 3-4mm only from the end of each pipe. Make sure you cut them exactly "square". Then get a pencil sharpener and carefully cut a small chamfer (about 2mm is ample) on the end of each pipe, to assist penetration through the 2 o-rings without dislodging them. Good luck with it!