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Thread: Starting a long dead P38

  1. #1
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    Starting a long dead P38

    Hi,
    As a previous RRC current D2 and now potential P38 owner, I wanted to get some advice on starting a 1995 P38 with a long dead battery. The plan was to show up with a charged battery and swap out the existing battery, insert key and drive home. Will there be BECM issues or key sync problems? Also,the EAS has sunk, but I'm assured it will rise again.
    Secondary questions:
    Is the preferred supplier of new bags Arnotts or airbagman or OEM ? (Contitech I believe) I have had problems with Arnotts in the past with the tops fracturing but apparently this is fixed.
    Where does one go for valve block O-ring kits with the Hardrange ones now unavailable?
    Cheers and TIA
    Steve

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Just how long has it been sitting?
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  3. #3
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    It could go either way...

    At a minimum, I'd be replacing the engine oil, water pump, thermostat and coolant before attempting to drive it anywhere. Coolant hoses as well if they are getting on.

    Cross your fingers and hope it starts!

    Cheers
    Keithy

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    Just how long has it been sitting?
    1.5 - 2 years with maybe an occasional start in that time. Expansion tank empty, so a coolant refill required.
    Steve

  5. #5
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    When I got mine, 1995 HSE, it had been sitting 5 months with the odd start, with luck a new battery should start it, do you know where the coolant went or are you planning a rebuild when you get home?

    Don't worry too much about computer issues from the battery, the older P38's are quite forgiving, you will need to reset the windows and sunroof and probably the remote locking, but most of the rest is self setting, do you have the radio code?

    The suspension might well work if it's been lifted occasionally, but I would suggest you at least give the airbags a visual check before you drive anywhere, maybe get it back up then leave it to see how badly it leaks, I am still chasing one on mine.

    Also bleed the brakes before you go anywhere, mine were terrible.

    Good luck and let us know how you go

  6. #6
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    There was a rumour about something wrong with the heater - not sure. So, maybe the o-ring problem or a corroded core. Only have to drive it a few k's to get it home where I can dissect it and sort it out. I'm a bit afraid of the BeCM losing the fob code and the immobiliser being activated when I put a good battery in it.
    Would the RR fob have the six character code internally as per the D2 ?
    Could my Nanocom (early version) talk to the P38 BeCM and let me set/reset it?
    Cheers,
    Steve

  7. #7
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    To sync the key fob, put the key in the door, press one of the buttons ( doesn't matter which one), turn the key to the back of the car then back to the middle and let go of the button, press a button again and turn the key to the front of the car then back and let go of the button. You should then be able to unlock the car with the fob. There's a few ways to do it but thats always worked for me.

    Being 95 you may be able to unlock it with the key and start it. I can on my 96, even if I've superlocked it with the fob.

    It's pretty easy to bypass the heater core too, as the last thing you want is lots of water in the drivers foot well in these things.

  8. #8
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    The fob resync as mentioned above, you need to press lock when turning in the lock direction, unlock when turning in the unlock direction!

    Cheers
    Keithy

  9. #9
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    I thought the same thing when I bought mine, but was reading an early tsb that said to 'press a key fob button', which I thought wasn't very prescriptive; but sure enough (my 96 anyway) it'll work with any button. But you've got to turn the key opposite ways.

  10. #10
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    For a long dead no start etc BEFORE connecting the battery and turning on the ignition for the first time, I'd remove the relay which operates the fuel pump, then connect the battery and then use the ignition switch to turn the motor over on the "new" battery in several bursts of about 5-10 seconds ea. to get the oil pressure up and oil circulating. (see if you can extinguish the oil pressure warning light on the instrument cluster).. Then put the relay back and try and start it...
    Given it's a GEMS system, IIRC, when the system has lost the immobiliser link between the engine EMS and the BECM, it won't turn over. With the Thor, it will turn over but not start because the system disables the fuel pump.
    Sorry, not familiar with the Nanocom capability in restoring the engine EMS with the BECM. Am sure others can provide this info. It is usual to rewrite the (fixed) 3 digit code obtained from the EMS into the BECM memory (with a Test Book /Faultmate etc).

    Good luck with it...
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
    2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
    2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)

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