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Thanks benji, will keep that in mind. I'm beginning to wish I just went and got one I know is there further out of town...I would have had it in and done by now, instead of waiting around for the first one, only to find it was faulty, now waiting for another one. I might see if I can just get a refund and move on.
Good news, the guy got a good replacement in for me, it's a later model one with the bolt on the yoke, instead of the earlier one with the nut.
Swapped them over today, looks like a much better unit, very little backlash and all the teeth are there this time.
Now to find the time to get it on the car! I'm hoping next week.
Cheers, Pete.
Glad you got what seems to be a satisfactory result;)
that's a good sign for good result!
good luck with it!
cheers
Bit of an update for those interested, I spent yesterday and this morning getting greasy under the Rangie today, managed to get the replacement front diff centre in.
Anyone who has done this job would know the fun of trying to wrestle a heavy diff centre into position from under the car!
Took her for a drive, no oil leaks, but I still have a vibration going on after all that.
The nature of the vibration has changed a bit, probably slightly worse if anything.
It's almost as if the tighter front diff is showing up the vibration more, as there is less play in the drive line now.
I can feel it in the steering wheel and in the seat a bit, less on acceleration, more on coasting or slowing down.
I have now noticed 1 to 2mm movement at the other end of the front drive shaft, coming from the tranfer box...I'm guessing the bearing in there is loose too.
Is it possible to replace the front transfer box bearing without pulling the whole transfer box out?
I've replaced 3 out of 4 uni joints, the one I have not replaced seems fine, but it would be a few years old now.
I've put a lot of effort and time into my P38 of late, I must say this is getting a bit frustrating! I'm not up to the point of driving it into one of those car crushers yet, but geez I'd love to get this vibration sorted!
Any ideas with this one?
It should be a relatively easy job to replace the beating on the transfer case side. If you take off the viscous coupling housing you should be able to press on a new bearing in the vc housing (easier than a diff for sure! )
You do not need to remove the complete transfer case. The front output bearing is part of the casing which houses the viscous coupling unit. You need to remove the front flange and oil seal. You remove the VCU with the VCU housing attached. Then the VCU is pressed out of the housing bearing. The bearing itself is held in place with a circlip. Remove this and then press the bearing out of the housing.
Budget for a "day-long job"...including lunch and coffee and the unexpected! Both shafts need to be dropped from the transfer case. You need to put a jack under the transmission because the cross member has to be removed as well. Once you're into it however it's straightforward. In such a confined space, a 12V electric rattle gun of the type for removing stubborn wheel nuts is invaluable for loosening the central flange nut off the output shaft! Using said rattle gun to give the nut a touch up when re-tightening also helps!
good luck with it!