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Thread: P38 Suspension Lift Guide

  1. #51
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    Ok, thanks, it's not going to be as straight forward as I thought!
    I removed the bump stop and lowered it down, it seemed to clear ok, that would be at least an inch. I'm not that keen to separate the airbag, I don't really want to create work for myself. It is quite difficult to work out as then I've got to think about the angle. I might try and make up an adjustable spacer first to see if I can get some readings.

  2. #52
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    If your spacers are 125mm diameter, you will get away with flat spacers in the front. For the rears, the rear of the spacer needs to be 20mm higher than the front. This will keep the bag near-vertical at full droop. When fully compressed it leans forward a few degrees.

    It's really quite simple once you've done it. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

  3. #53
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    Part repeat of above but here is my 2 cents worth.

    My aim was also flex. Wouldn't go any shorter than my 30mm spacers as the fronts gen 3 bags in particular are extended/stretched quite a lot. People have gone no spacers at all with the terrafirma +2 shocks but it's risky as the bags are really stretched and pulling on that bottom crimp ring.

    I put fairly soft rubber bump extensions so the compressed thickness makes my bump stops around 20mm when flexing (all front weight on 1 front wheel). I would be concerned about the piston touching the top with no bump stop extension. In particular on the road at speed and around a corner. Bang, pop, Oh no. Seriously.

    But the +2 shocks in the rear given about 75mm more downwards travel at the wheel and I lose 20mm at the top so it still flexes well. The front likely gains 20mm flex or so but the sway bar disconnects help the front a little more on ease of flexing.

    My 32's never scrub now so next set will be 33's.hurry up and wear out Damn you.

    Are you using stock bags? I hope not otherwise I wouldn't be getting longer shocks.

    I can find the shock table Keith mentioned if you request.

  4. #54
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    Hi Pete38, yes, I'm using stock springs.
    I may not even bother about this lift now, it seems that for the work to do it, I'm not going to be gaining much with standard springs, and also the cost of new shocks. I was going to measure the shock length and see what I needed, but if there is a chart, that would save me some time. It really sounds like, as mentioned on the first post, that the main part of this is the gen3's. I thought I may have been able to squeeze an extra 1" or so out out the stock suspension just by changing the piston height of the bag. ( seems like RR has set this up well, and not much more to get out of it ) I'm going to have another think about this, and see what I can come up with. The only way to get the wheel to drop is by extended shocks, therefore needing either the longer springs, or spacer. I already have an air bypass in place between the rear wheels, which in theory gives me full flex between the rear wheels, this may be good enough for now. I will go and play with the nanocom to see if I can play with the height sensors for optimum adjustment.
    Looks like the winch mount and recovery points are back on the top of the list again. lol

  5. #55
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    Stock equivalent Shocks (well the Bilstein equivalent's anyway);

    - Front
    - Compressed 13.3"
    - Extended 21"

    -Rear
    - Compressed 12.2"
    - Extended 18.7"

    The front of mine were Bilstein 2214 and the rear were 2215.

    All in inches due to these coming from my gen 3 upgrade shock tables (yanky inches)

    I believe (but confirm) the ends are called S1 for the lower and EB1 for the upper. So 5/8" inner diameter eyelet on the top and the 3/8" stud/pin on the bottom.

  6. #56
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    Be careful with the air bypass between the springs - it will make the vehicle pitch on corners quite dramatically.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keithy P38 View Post
    Be careful with the air bypass between the springs - it will make the vehicle pitch on corners quite dramatically.
    I only use it for off road. And to be honest, I have only opened the valve a couple of time.
    I have it set up on front and rear, but if I do both it tilts over. Lol.
    I already have front sway off, so it's pretty boatty.
    It isn't my daily driver, so not to concerned about the road quality, just drive it accordingly.

  8. #58
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    There was some conversation earlier in this thread about the boss shocks.
    Are these the ones?
    http://www.bossglobalinc.com/boss_shocks.html
    There are two there that are very close to the right lengths.

    Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by benji View Post
    There was some conversation earlier in this thread about the boss shocks.
    Are these the ones?
    Boss Air Suspension - Shock Absorbers
    There are two there that are very close to the right lengths.

    Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app
    Benji, they are the ones I've got on my car. Initially sill plied with the HRA kit

    Gary

  10. #60
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    Hey Gary, how do you rate the ride quality on the Boss shocks?

    I'm finding the Terrafirma shocks a bit rough for normal driving but fantastic when the roads get rough.

    Cheers
    Keithy

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