Park brake drum removal problem

**glenhendry** · 24th April 2014, 10:09 AM

Step 5 on RAVE for parking brake drum removal say to raise one rear wheel to allow the prop shaft to rotate. When I do this, I cannot turn the lifted rear wheel more than 1/8th of a turn. The car is in neutral with the hand brake off. I tried in Low and high range. I am worried this means my VC is locked up. When the rear shaft rotates a little (until it stops) the front shaft turns in unison. This link suggests it is locked? ([ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1vV9Zk-GhI"]Range Rover Classic /Borg Warner viscous coupling failure - ask the expert - YouTube[/ame]).

The handbrake was stuck on a few days ago after 4wding in the mud at Glasshouse Mountains, so I disconnected the cable under the handbrake handle.

What is stopping one lifted rear wheel from turning?

**glenhendry** · 24th April 2014, 10:22 AM

It looks like the VC is fine. I made a mistake by trying the back wheel (since it was raised as per RAVE).

Using the rear keeps the handbrake in play. If the handbrake is locked or dragging you wont get a result. When I tried this with a front wheel elevated, it turned slowly with resistance. So I suspect my handbrake is locked on, and that is making it hard for me to get the top nut off, that is holding the front of the rear shaft to the brake drum.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XddClDAIfXw]Range Rover P38 (P38a) Viscous Coupling (VCU) Test - YouTube[/ame]

**wayneg** · 24th April 2014, 11:52 AM

As well as lifting a wheel you could put a fuse in to get the transfer case to go into neutral, i think no11 on driver seat fusebox. See your handbook

**benji** · 25th April 2014, 06:45 AM

If it's on a flat surface, just push the car half a foot. You could also try jacking a front and a back wheel up, and with the gearbox in neutral see if a prybar in a universal joint will work (that way your not fighting against the vc). If that fails I'd be putting a bolt back in opposite the top one, doing it up hand tight, and driving the car forwards.

**glenhendry** · 26th April 2014, 10:04 AM

Turns out that the handbrake cable on my 2000MY with 285kkm is stuffed. It wont retract all the way without significant force, much more than the in built spring or the drum brake shoes provide. The coating on the inner cable is all frayed and worn and so I suspect that the cable is getting caught inside on its remains, or dirt etc.

If your handbrake sticks on, dont be surprised if its the cable - they wear out.

Tips for removal:
- Part number ANR2215
- The grommet RAVE refers to regularly is part of the cable assembly, see a picture of one online for sale before tackling its removal so that you know which is part of the car and which is part of the cable. (link to item)
- It is surprisingly easy to push the grommet (and contained cable) down through the transmission tunnel, and also easy to push it back up into the vehicle. Its just an interference fit with a mushroom head to stop if falling back down and seal the hole.
- It is also fairly easy to insert and remove the brake end of the cable into the drum brake backing plate.

**glenhendry** · 2nd May 2014, 09:26 AM

New hand brake (parking brake) cable is in and finished, and has solved all woes. Easy enough job. One more tip; when you are re-installing the new cable in the brake lever handle with the pin and clevis, there is a second pin and clevis to detach that makes the job so much easier, as it allows the lever mechanism to pivot down to the cable without the long handle moving, which allows you to attach the pin to the cable without having to pull the cable up and hold it against its spring (which is nearly impossible, and leads to swearing).

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