Thread: Sway or Roll Bar Disconnects for P38

Photo's attached here:

Copied my response across from the lifted thread. And made a few changes.

I'm modifying some "JKS 3100 OE Replacement Front Swaybar Quicker Disconnect System for Jeep WJ". Mine are based on this find. Shortening JKS 3100 Quicker Disconnects for a P38A Range Rover Not cheap though at $180 delivered from the US.

My concerns with your design would be the rod failing in tension where you have reduced the section dramatically to put the pins through, so they could stretch near the holes in the original rods. The sleeve on the outside doesn't give sectional area to the original rod as they are only connected with the shear pins. I can try and explain why if need be.

The connection/shear pins would unlikely fail in shear I feel.

I'm not overly familiar with the forces sway bars experience so maybe the section is enough, but looking at the diameter of the sway bar I'd imagine they are quite high when flexing off road and you don't remove the pins.

Pete - where did you source the JKS3100? If you'd be good enough to share. Is the only mods needed to the JKS's, the shortening? Or is there further modding with regards the holes on the sway brace and those on the chasis?

I know what you mean about the thin section (1mm per side of the hole)through the oiriginal rods - on those I've modded. But the outer 12 x 2mm tube has been welded "upstream" of the 6mm dia holes - if you get my drift. So in tension, the shear pins are pulling on the whole of the 8mm original rod as transfered by the 2mm thick outer tube.

But I do confess, I would be nervous cornering a road at high speed - fully loaded with the family on-board. Hence, why I think, I'll rethunk them.

My photo's cannot be uploaded twice - I believe - under the rules of this forum. Hence, my photos reside under the P38 Suspension Lift Guide sticky.

I sourced them from Amazon. Maybe find them locally at a place that specialises in Jeeps I guess.

Not so cheap at $AU190 (correction) delivered although they are well made.

Standard sway bar links are 100mm long c/c (Thanks Keithy) and mine are now 140mm long so OK for my 30mm spacers. Would have preferred 130mm minimum length but I didn't want to cut more female thread off just to be safe. There are other ways to shorten them but that involvedi welding so not so desirable for me. I reckon the usual 50mm spacers you could almost not cut them. Or maybe just remove the lock nut and shorten the threaded rod only. Not much need to lock them if you ask me as they can only change length if spun which they can't do when installed.

I'll likely only disconnect one side I'd say so no need to hang the sway bar. Although will need to check that that won't hit anything. Doubt it'll be problem though.

Amazon.com: JKS 3100 OE Replacement Front Swaybar Quicker Disconnect System for Jeep WJ: Automotive

Oh and I see what you have done now with the section as well. I didn't really understand what you had done on my previous replies. Pays to read properly huh?

Mine will be going on this weekend most likely. I believe I need to slightly open up the mount holes only so not a big job.

I'll be sure to post some pics up when done and any extra info.

I'm just hoping the gen 3's don't over extend with only 30mm spacers and the sway bar disconnected. Mind you the shocks are only +2 inch and the bags are meant to do that without the spacers. Just looks tight thats all... So maybe those bottom rings can take a little bit of a pull on them.

Well the disconnects are in. Might need to shorten them a touch as when on the bump stops they just touch the rod that does the toe in and toe out (not sure of the name).

Flex shots and installation pics tomorrow.

Happy little chappy. Definitely getting full shock stroke now and the front bags didn't pop with the 30mm spacers. Easy to remove and only one side disconnected seems to work well (but top and bottom pin so the whole link comes out).

Easy job to do hey. Hardest part was shortening the disconnects but that wasn't hard. The sway bar holes were big enough for the bottom mount pin, the body mount holes I drilled with 1/2 inch drill which took maybe half a mm out of the hole for the bolt to slide through without damaging the thread.

Did you notice an improvement with the swaybar disconnected?