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Thread: Blower motor brush replacement

  1. #1
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    Blower motor brush replacement

    Hi

    I read that these should be replaced at around 180K because the blowers run almost continually. If the brushes are as worn as the ones in my alternator were when I replaced them, they will be due for sure.

    So i grabbed some of these to do the job

    Heater Blower FAN Carbon Brushes VW Golf GTI MK3 Saab Bora Valeo Motor Repair B1 | eBay

    Looking at rave it seems fairly straightforward to remove the blower motors and I am sure the brushes will only take 5 mins to replace unless the commutator needs cleaning up.

    Has anyone done this and if so are there any traps or tips?

    Steve

  2. #2
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    I've not come across these needing replacement. One of my cars has clocked up over 360000km & they've never been touched since new.
    Scott

  3. #3
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    Hi,

    I can't remember where I read it, but since it looks like a fairly easy job and I will be under the drivers side dash tomorrow, I will take a look.

    I may even be able to get one out with the motor in situ.

    The problem with brushes is that you don't know they need replacing until they have started chewing up your commutator

    I will let you know what the old brushes look like.

    Steve

  4. #4
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    I have taken the passenger side one out, easy, just drop the glove box and its staring you in the face, 4 self tappers and its out. The one on the drivers side is very visible however there is quite a bit of stuff in front of it that will need to be moved. Not sure how much effort that will entail. Let us know.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveFarmer View Post
    Hi,

    I can't remember where I read it, but since it looks like a fairly easy job and I will be under the drivers side dash tomorrow, I will take a look.

    I may even be able to get one out with the motor in situ.

    The problem with brushes is that you don't know they need replacing until they have started chewing up your commutator

    I will let you know what the old brushes look like.

    Steve
    You will find that the new brushes seem to occupy all the space and then the spring is almost fully compressed, bit it id ok.

    If you solder the new to the old leads, leave plenty of the old and don't oversolder the joint or the solder creeps quickly along the lead making it stiff.

    Try to align the leads nicely - you'll see when you do it.

    Nice job, good result!

  6. #6
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    Hi

    Today has dawned sunny so I may take the opportunity to do the Track rod, drag link and shocks rather than the blower motors.

    Whatever happens, the blowers will be looked at soon !

    Steve

  7. #7
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    I need to pull the RH unit as I'm logging HEVAC errors in that area - so I wait with bated breath for your report.
    Ron B.
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    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
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    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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  8. #8
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    Ron

    Due to life getting in the way, I didn't manage to get to the blower motor today.

    I see what you mean about the drivers side one though it's a bit of a spaghetti fest under there.

    RAVE says to unclip the harness and move it out of the way.

    This post also suggests the trunking can be moved out of the way.

    Driver's Side (LH) Blower Motor removal 97 P38

    Steve

  9. #9
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    The LHD cars have a lot less wiring on their drivers side than we do. 95% of the fascia wiring comes from the right hand side, regardless of drive configuration.


    Sometimes, I think the P38 was designed to be LHD from the start:
    Easier to do heater O rings;
    More access on the RH of the engine (think removing the RH exhaust manifold);
    PAS pump on LH side.
    Scott

  10. #10
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    Hi

    There has been an update on rr.net on this topic and it seems you can move the trunking out of the way.

    Driver's Side (LH) Blower Motor removal 97 P38

    Steve

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