Thread: Oil change and coolant flush

The oil filter is on the front of the motor, drivers side. Look up from underneath, above the steering arm! No need to flush the oil system unless there are issues.

I use Valvoline 5w40 "SynPower", has been a fantastic oil. I previously used Penrite 5w40 Synthetic but found it to cause the engine to become tappety, so I personally wouldn't recommend it.

As for coolant, I use Nulon - can be bought in concentrate form from Super Cheap. Pre-mix it at the prescribed ratio in a bucket or watering can before you refill the cooling system.

Remove the radiator and clean it thoroughly and also give the block a good flush when changing the coolant.

Cheers
Keithy

How hard is it to get the radiator out and is this recommended.

It's not that hard. Two small screws at the bottom of the radiator bracket, remove hoses off course, loosen fan shroud, a little manoeuvring around radiator fan and out she slides. Though you shouldn't need to take rad out to flush the engine.

I use Penrite 15w 50 synthetic, but am going to give Nulon a go next change. I've got Nulon currently in my VS commodore, only the premium mineral base and seems to have quietened the engine right down. Nulon like Penrite is Aussie company.

Hi

You don't really need to remove the radiator, also the drain plug on the block mentioned in RAVE is impossible to get too, so I ignore it.

There are a couple of good threads on here re flushing the cooling system.

Check that all your hoses are in top shape as well

Oil change is straightforward, but it seems the oil separator is often neglected,

Steve

You can get 10L of Penrite HPR10 10W50 from SuperCheap at a reasonable price, as well as the red Nulon coolant.

Buy a few oil filters from the UK to make the shipping charge worthwhile and get a couple of pairs of pollen filters.

I have spares of each if you need them in a hurry until your arrive, and I am just over the border in QBN.

Cheers, Paul.

We all have our views on oil, its been debated many times already. I go with the view of RPI engineering in the UK to stick with good quality old school 20/50 changed often. I stock up when on special, between $10 $15 for 5 litres and use generic Z9 filters a $5 a pop. I change every 3 to 4 months 4000k`s max.
Having Had rover V8`s from the late 1970`s I have yet to have an issue oil related.
Most of our Engines are getting well past the 150000k mark and the lower number viscosity is irrelevant in Australia unless you live somewhere odd that it gets cold so 20/50 it is for me

"The V-8 engine relies more on oil volume than oil pressure. So the oil doesn't have to have extreme temperature or pressure capabilities. As a result the quality of the oil therefore doesn't need to be of premium quality. So use of synthetic or semi-synthetic oils is not necessary and a bit of a waste of money. If you use your car as an everyday car and plan to keep it with the same engine for a long time, than regular oil replacement will have a better effect on your engine than using the more expensive oils.

A somewhat thicker standard oil doesn't hurt so 15W40 is a good option for use in temperate climates like Holland and the UK. If you already have somewhat worn bearings (indicated by low oil pressure) you better use a thicker 20W50 oil. Make sure though that you use an engine oil with good detergent qualities, particularly for the V-8's as they tend to be very sensitive to oil sludge. Oil as used in turbo-diesel engines has very good detergent qualities so preferably use that."

Originally Posted by wayneg

Most of our Engines are getting well past the 150000k mark and the lower number viscosity is irrelevant in Australia unless you live somewhere odd that it gets cold so 20/50 it is for me

Penrite 10W50 seems to help with cold starts in near-zero and sub-zero DegC Canberra mornings that we get here between ANZAC Day and Armistice Day.
"Somewhere odd" as you say